Just when I was about to despair of local Shiraz – gobs of fruit, very little definition, very little detail – a bottle of Fable Bobbejaan Syrah 2009 (R320 a bottle). Clean and pure and layered. Plenty of red fruit but also pepper and spice, which seems to elude so many other producers. Great freshness and finish which really does go on and on. Score: 18/20.
Fable used to be Tulbagh Mountain Vineyards and it’s were the ever more accomplished Chris and Andrea Mullineux started out. The wines are now made by Rebecca Tanner with Paul Nicholls in the vineyards. Charles Banks and the rest of Californian based wine and hospitality company Terroir Capital now own the property along with Mulderbosch. It’s one to watch.