Saltare Chenin Blanc 2009, encountered for the first time at independent retailer Wine @ the Mill in Woodstock on Saturday, is goose-bumps good. Made by Carla Pauw, previously of Paarl winery Anura, grapes come from a vineyard on Swartland property Lammershoek – 40 years old, the single hectare bears a mere two tons. Half the wine underwent spontaneous ferment and altogether was matured for nine months in fourth-fill oak. What’s striking about the final product is not so much aromatics or flavours but its texture, thick but not unctuous. Only 1 400 bottles made, it’s R109 a pop retail.