Ampersand Cinsault 2023

Dean Lappan’s path to wine was anything but direct. Raised in Natal, he began his working life in Johannesburg as a computer network administrator before heading east, where a stint in India led to an immersion in yoga. He and his wife eventually returned to South Africa to open a studio in Hermanus. Funds were tight, and when the Newton Johnson family offered them the chance to make cheese from their dairy herd, Lappan took it – going on to serve as farm manager and viticulturist from 2010 until 2022 (he counts Kevin Watt and Rosa Kruger as important influences).

Now at Gabriëlskloof, Lappan remains utterly under wine’s spell. His personal project, Ampersand, sees its maiden release in the form of a Cinsault from Bottelary (R290 a bottle). Winemaking included 40% whole-bunch fermentation and 11 months’ maturation in seasoned 300-litre barrels.

The nose is all cranberry, raspberry, floral lift and wild fynbos. The palate is light yet vivid, the acidity bright providing a sourness that feels purposeful rather than raw, the tannins fine and none too aggressive. Entirely charming. Alcohol: 11.7%.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

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