Ataraxia Whole Cluster Pinot Noir 2020

For most red wines, the first stage of winemaking is to separate the grape berries from the stems. Include stems, however, and it can round out wines from a high acid vintage or provide freshness in a high ripeness vintage.

In the case of his 2020 vintage of Pinot Noir, Kevin Grant from Ataraxia in Hemel-en-Aarde Ridge has opted to ferment 100% whole-bunch and the result is terrific. Matured for 11 months in 225-litre barrels of which 25% were new, the wine shows haunting aromatics of red and black berries, floral perfume, tea leaf and a hint of fresh herbs while the palate has a great core of fruit, bright acidity and fine tannins. It’s pure and balanced with a remarkably delicate texture – some whole-bunch wines can appear a little rustic but not this. Price: R580 a bottle.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

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