Concept and execution grow ever more closely aligned, the search for perfection ever closer to being completed with Eben Sadie’s red blend that is Columella. The current-release 2015 is a blend of mainly Syrah, Grenache and Mourvèdre with the remainder Cinsaut, Tinta Barocca and Carignan, matured for 12 months in small barrels (8% new) and then for another 12 months in foudre.
On the nose, cherries, plums raspberry, blueberry and blackberry, lavender, fynbos, liquorice, white pepper and spice. The palate is dense but not too dense with lemon-like acidity and fine tannins. Nothing exaggerated, all of a piece, it transports you to its place of origin and isn’t that what great wine does? Approximate retail price: R795 a bottle.
Editor’s rating: 97/100.
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