Waterkloof Sauvignon Blanc 2012
By Christian Eedes, 16 September 2013
There’s nothing middle of the road about Waterkloof in Somerset West, least of all its flagship Sauvignon Blanc. The 2012 vintage has just been released ( R155 a bottle) and it’s as quirky as ever. The entire property is farmed according to biodynamic methods (with certification under way) and the Sauvignon comes from two 17-year-old vineyards bearing approximately two tons a hectare. In the cellar, the wine underwent spontaneous fermentation in old 600-litre barrels, the process taking over a year to finish.
The result is confounding, at least for me. Lime, green melon, a touch of blackcurrant but also vague yeasty and bruised apple notes. Sweet, rich and broad although tangy acidity does provide something of a counterpoint.
Waterkloof’s proposition with all its wines but particularly this one is minimal intervention in the winemaking process in order to let a sense of place come to the fore. I do wonder, however, if a little more human intervention in the cellar might not be a bad thing.