Home // News

Cape Town blind tasting: SA Pinot, Chardonnay against world’s best

By , 10 September 2025

Comment

10

The Singles Club – a collective of like-minded friends passionate about single-vineyard, terroir-driven wines, namely Newton Johnson Family Vineyards, Restless River, and Storm Wines – recently set out to probe a big question: just how good is South African Chardonnay and Pinot Noir?

With international wine media and trade figures in Cape Town for CapeWine 2025, the trio hosted a special tasting this past Saturday under the banner “The Judgement of Cape Town.” The format: six flights of three wines tasted blind. Labels concealed, 16 guest tasters kept in the dark about the line-up, and the three winemakers aware of which wines had been included but not of their sequence. To prevent outlier scores from skewing the outcome, the highest and lowest ratings for each wine were discarded before calculating the group averages.

And the results? All the Pinots clustered tightly, scoring between 93 and 94 points once rounded – a striking testament to the overall quality.

The group’s top three examples of Pinot Noir were:
1. Restless River Le Luc Pinot Noir 2022 – Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley – 93.69 points
2. Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru Clos des Ruchottes Monopole 2022 – Gevrey Chambertin – 93.63 points
3. Felton Road Calvert Pinot Noir 2022 – Central Otago – 93.50 points

The Chardonnays scored in a band of 91 to 95. The top three examples were:
1. Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2021 – Aloxe Corton – 94.69 points
2. Newton Johnson CWG Sandford Chardonnay 2022 – Upper Hemel-en-Aarde Valley – 94.31 points
3. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2022 – Margaret River, Western Australia – 94.25 points

My Pinot Noir top three were:
1.= Cristom Eileen Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 – Eola-Amity Hills, Willamette Valley – 97
1.= Littorai Savoy Vineyard Pinot Noir 2022 – Anderson Valley, California – 97
3.= Domaine Georges & Christophe Roumier Les Cras 2022 Premier Cru – Chambolle-Musigny – 96
3.= Domaine Armand Rousseau Pere et Fils Ruchottes-Chambertin Grand Cru Clos des Ruchottes Monopole 2022 – 96

My Chardonnay top three were:
1. Newton Johnson CWG Sandford Chardonnay 2022 – Upper Hemel-en-Aarde – 98
2. Domaine Bouchard Pere & Fils Corton Charlemagne Grand Cru 2021 – Aloxe Corton – 97
3. Leeuwin Estate Art Series Chardonnay 2022 – Margaret River, Western Australia – 96

As so often happens, the Pinot Noirs divided opinion stylistically. To my mind, the local examples showed slightly less fruit concentration and structure than their international counterparts, though others might just as easily have read this as elegance. The broader consensus, however, was that South African Chardonnay is more difficult to distinguish from its international peers than Pinot Noir.

Pouring order and full group scores
For Pinot Noir, download the following: Judgement of CTN Pinot Noir
For Chardonnay, download the following: Judgement of CTN Chardonnay

Comments

10 comment(s)

Please read our Comments Policy here.

  • Greg Sherwood | 11 September 2025

    CE, do you agree with a 98 for the Newton Johnson Chardy? Thats certainly a big score in SA terms! I love their wines but I am yet to score any SA Chardonnay 98 points.

    • Christian Eedes | 11 September 2025

      Hi Greg, It was a blind tasting, which is precisely the safeguard against favouritism or prior expectation. Big scores will always divide opinion, but hedging your bets doesn’t really advance the conversation. On the day, the Newton Johnson Chardonnay showed at 98 for me – and that’s what went down on the sheet.

    • William Fraser | 11 September 2025

      A follow up from the question posed by Mr Sherwood.

      I seldom ( not always) see scores for S.A wines below 92 in these publications. Either you 1: prefer to taste only wines which are received to be “premium “ as it is referred to in a previous article) , or quality in S.A wines have improved immeasurably but it is misunderstood globally (where seldom scores above 92 is recorded – I exclude biased publications here…) , 2: taste inferior wines but decline to post the scores for fear of losing access to “premium” wines from the brand 3: inflate the scores to retain access to the wines from the producers?

      Or scores globally across all publications have edge higher for no reason but to retain “relevance “, but this does not benefit the average consumer . The “premiumisation “ of wine will most likely not happen if the average consumer is fed incorrect information about wines at a higher price point – why take the risk and spend on one bottle that a case of known and liked wine cost… it is a question….

      The scores of Mr Eedes also seems to be an outlier and would most likely have been ignored in the final published score. If not, the remaining scores most likely experienced a wide margin of error which , to me, makes the final average score meaningless.

      A score of 98 is either relative, or absolute. I.e. it is ranked according to other wines tasted on the day, or it is ranked according to a globally accepted scale relative to all wines over all time frames. Or the taster doesn’t have sufficient experience or had enough opportunities to taste different wines across different continents and thus properly benchmark the wines . I.e. is a Chardonnay from S.A scoring 98 on par with a 98 pointer from Burgundy ?

      Same question goes to the reports put out by Mr Atkin and the likes: does that serve the local industry relative to one another or absolutely ? I.e. is it meant for the global investment / consumer market looking to accumulate and enjoy SA wines, or the local industry who are looking for relevance and the opportunity to increase margin…

      To rank a very good Chardonnay in S.A 98 points, higher than the majority of all Burgandy wines over all time periods across all publications , is challenging to understand, unless we know how the wines are scored on a particular day.

      Some explanation on how we should interpret these scores are required….

      If you are really concerned about the lack of demand for wines above a certain minimum price point, why not educate the consumer? Taste and rank wines in the entry level price point, and then recommend producers / cultivars which are in the next price bracket, but an improvement in quality, enjoyment, complexity. How you get them to read your publication is a different challenge altogether.

      • Christian Eedes | 11 September 2025

        Hi William, Firstly, poor wines still exist, and secondly, score creep is real – but in an over-traded market, I don’t believe publishing lots and lots of low scores is that useful for either producer or consumer – I’d rather highlight wines worth buying than those to avoid. With 25 years of tasting around the world, I’d like to think my expertise isn’t in question. Any taster scoring in a band of 91 – 94 is never going to be “wrong”, but so what? Our aim, as much as anything is context: showing where SA wines sit locally and globally, giving readers actionable insight rather than simply publishing numbers for their own sake.

  • Paul Benade | 11 September 2025

    No Domaine Leroy or
    Domaine de la Romanée-Conti
    Bindi’s Original Vineyard Pinot Noir
    Yattarna Chardonnay
    Antica Terra ‘Botanical’ Pinot Noir
    Soter Vineyards Estate Chardonnay
    Etc, etc….
    Could we see the complete selection and scores of all the “judges”?

    • Christian Eedes | 11 September 2025

      Hi Paul, You’ll find links to the full line-up of wines, with group average scores, at the bottom of the post. The organisers communicated upfront that individual scores would not be released – these were submitted anonymously in any case. The tasting panel comprised: Christian Eedes, Dalene Fourie, Wikus Hunan, Derek Kilpin, Malu Lambert, Matt Manning, Jason Millar, Jörg Pfützner, James Pietersen, Jean Vincent Ridon, Treve Ring, Eben Sadie (moderator), Jimmy Smith, Madeleine Stenwreth and Bernard Stramwasser.

  • Schalk Burger | 11 September 2025

    This is fascinating – would you be willing to share your scores for all the wines on the day, Christian?

    • Christian Eedes | 11 September 2025

      Hi Schalk, I’d prefer not to share my scores for every wine – not out of shyness, but because it feels contrary to the spirit of the tasting, which was about gauging where SA stands at a glance. I’d like the focus to remain more on the broader context rather than any individual number.

Leave a Reply to Schalk Burger Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

Like our content?

Show your support.


Subscribe