Malu Lambert: Urbanisation – a growing threat to viticulture

A year ago I stood with Christo le Riche outside his Helderberg winery taking in the sight of newly planted cabernet sauvignon, the first for them. Since Le Riche was founded in 1997, the winery has built its reputation on sourcing grapes from growers across Stellenbosch. This isn’t going to change anytime soon, the Le Riches are champions of Cabernet and the diversity of styles the region’s wards are capable of producing. They are however concerned about fruit security.

Beyond the fledgling vines, the blue line of the ocean is visible, but somewhat starting to block that view is a sea of cookie-cutter ‘winelands-style’ houses, incrementally encroaching on vineyard land. Forget birds, baboons, and even leafroll, urbanisation is the most sinister viticultural hazard Stellenbosch’s vineyards are facing.

“There’s significant pressure on vineyards from property development,” agrees Le Riche. “With current grape prices still at a multi-decade low, farming vineyards often doesn’t make financial sense and we’re seeing a steady decline in hectares. 

“We’re trying to push back against development, but part of it seems inevitable,” says Tim Hutchinson of DGB, the company responsible for a significant Helderberg replanting programme, totalling six farms and 128-hectares, one of which is Klein Helderberg. The vineyards that were grubbed up there had old vine heritage cachet, but were largely infected with leafroll. Hutchinson believes it was a case of either they came in and replanted, or bricks and mortar were next. 

“Only a small percentage of wine farmers are truly viable right now. Just uprooting a hectare, replanting and then farming it properly over two years can cost upwards of R670,000,” he explains. “You’re lucky if you break even by year seven.

“We’re putting pressure on prime vineyard land in Stellenbosch, when a proper rail system could shift growth to places like Wellington. It would change the face of Stellenbosch and take real strain off the region.” 

He notes that similar development in agricultural land is underway in Paarl, where more Val de Vie-esque security estates are being proposed. 

There are also rumours of land on Blaauwklippen being primed for development as well as a plot near Villiera, but the latest, and most concerning, is the Brandwacht application. 

The contentious proposal is to rezone the remainder of Farm 1049, which will include residential housing of potentially 120 units as well as an office park and hotel. This, all outside the designated urban edge, which serves as a boundary to control urban sprawl and protect agricultural and heritage areas. The development is also connected to the proposed Eastern Link Road, a project aimed at alleviating traffic by joining Paradyskloof and Brandwacht –  the concern is that this road will only further encourage urban expansion into agricultural areas as well as be an eyesore in the historically beautiful region.

Speaking to academic and vocal Stellenbosch resident, Dr Charl Cilliers, he points out: “Unless this boundary is redrawn in the next ‘Spatial Development Framework’ update, it’s unlikely that projects like Brandwacht will gain approval. And even then, once an Environmental Impact Assessment is triggered, the process becomes complex and politically charged.

“Any development must consider broader and cumulative impacts, such as traffic congestion, infrastructure strain and environmental impact.

“It’s not just about saying no to development, but about asking where it should happen.” As an example he points out that there are a number of vacant plots within the existing urban edge that have yet to be developed, some which have stood empty for years, one such site for 25 years now. “These should be prioritised.” 

There’s also the risk posed to the fynbos biome. He points out the contentious Botmaskop development, a 67-unit residential complex that has now been halted as it had become a much larger proposal than was originally approved. An endangered plant species indigenous to Stellenbosch was recently discovered along the boundary fence. Building in these areas poses a risk to the richness of plant diversity – before considering construction environmental studies need to be rigorous and long term.

Plant cottages?

During the business part of the WSET Diploma course, a lecturer said, ‘if you want to make money on a wine farm, plant cottages not vines.’ This wry statement is proving to be the crux of the issue in the battle for Durbanville. Here, they have the opposite problem to Stellenbosch farmers. Falling under the auspices of the City of Cape Town (Stellenbosch has its own council), the city is said to be highly sensitive to development proposals. 

“A group of us have been in discussions with the city for some time,” says Bernhard Veller, winemaker/owner of Nitida. “Our proposal was to allow development on 15 per cent of the land. In return, 85 per cent would be protected from future development for at least 25 years with the aim of safeguarding agriculture while allowing farmers to benefit from another income stream.” Veller himself has just finished the planning to build a hotel on his estate, but this comes under ‘tourism’ and is thereby allowed. 

As a cautionary tale two of the valley’s historic estates, Altydgedacht and Bloemendal, are now defunct, with Bloemendal going up for auction in late May. The jury is still on the fate of these estates. “In order to preserve these types of historic estates, there needs to be a balance with allowed commercial activity. 

Urbanisation, particularly in Stellenbosch and its surrounding wards, is proving to be a slow-moving but relentless threat to South Africa’s viticultural heritage, and as hectares fall… white picket fences go up.

• Malu Lambert is a freelance wine journalist and wine judge who has written for numerous local and international titles. She is a WSET Diploma alum and won the title of Louis Roederer Emerging Wine Writer of the Year 2019, among many other accolades. She sits on various tasting panels and has judged in competitions abroad. Follow her on X: @MaluLambert