Chamonix Troika Reserve 2010
By Christian Eedes, 4 February 2013
A tasting at Chamonix in Franschhoek on Friday but what to add that hasn’t been said already? It’s winery of the year in the current edition of Platter’s and Greywacke Pinotage 2010, Pinot Noir Reserve 2011, Chardonnay Reserve 2011 and White Reserve 2011 were all rated 5 Stars.
Winemaker Gottfried Mocke manages the rare feat of combining technical precision with stylistic flair and the result is wines marked by fruit purity and freshness but also possessing structure, that tend towards savoury rather than sweet, that are compelling both intellectually and emotionally.
Mocke’s Charonnay and Pinot Noir are probably most feted but the wine of the day for me was his Troika Reserve 2010, a Bordeaux-style red blend (price: R185). Consisting of 51% Cabernet Franc, 40% Cabernet Sauvignon and 9% Merlot, it spent 24 months in French oak, 65% new.
Black berries, pencil shavings and a hint of fynbos on the nose. Great fruit concentration and fresh acidity, the oak cleverly used with tannins appearing firm but fine. I thought it offered unusual refreshment value and hence very appealing now but simultaneously it has all the inherent requirements to keep until at least 2020. Turns out it was nominated for 5 Stars in Platter’s but was not endorsed. I wouldn’t hesitate to score it 18/20.