Leeu Passant Stellenbosch Chardonnay vertical: 2024 – 2015

Leeu Passant claims its Chardonnay “has established itself as a benchmark of South African excellence” and, having recently tasted a vertical spanning the maiden 2015 to the current-release 2024 (only revisiting my original scores afterwards), it’s difficult to disagree. Sourced from a Helderberg vineyard planted in 2001 at 400m above sea level on red gravel soils close to the ocean, the wine is typically matured for 22 months in 225-litre barrels, 30% new.

Some observations:

1. The best vintages combine scale with freshness

The standout years – 2015, 2017 and 2022 – all share a similar architecture: notable fruit concentration held firmly in check by acidity. The wines that endure are not necessarily the leanest, but those where power and vitality remain in equilibrium over time.

2. Mid-palate richness alone does not guarantee longevity

The relative decline of 2019 and especially 2020 (both with alcohols of 14%) suggests that generosity gives early appeal but can come at the expense of long-term definition. Both appear to have evolved faster than initially anticipated, with savoury maturity overtaking fruit expression sooner than expected.

3. There has been a stylistic tightening in recent vintages

From 2022 onwards, the emphasis appears increasingly on clarity of fruit and tension rather than breadth or overt texture. The 2024 in particular reads as a culmination of this trajectory – poised and precise while still retaining sufficient fruit weight to avoid austerity. The increasing age of the vineyard is surely playing a beneficial role, too.

Stellenbosch Chardonnay 2024
Rating: 96 – current release

Aromatics of blossom, citrus, herbs and touches of vanilla and reduction. The palate is poised and exacting – clean fruit, striking acidity and a pithy finish. Elegant but by no means underdone. Alc: 13%.

2023
Rating: 94
Original rating: 94 – March 2025

Combines notable fruit weight with latent energy. Promising rather than profound, for now.

2022
Rating: 96
Original rating: 96 – April 2024

A benchmark of clarity and structure. Luminous fruit matched by zesty acidity, the finish long and dry. Effortlessly classy.

2021
Rating: 95
Original rating: 95 – April 2023

Broad-shouldered but composed. Power checked by bright acidity. Less kinetic than 2022 but still hugely appealing.

2020
Rating: 91
Original rating: 95 – July 2022

Now fully mature. Savoury complexity has overtaken primary fruit and the drinking window is narrowing. Enjoy now.

2019
Rating: 92
Original rating: 94 – June 2021

A noticeable retreat from its youthful promise. Fully resolved, somewhat mellow and no longer especially defined.

2018
Rating: 93
Original rating: 93 – April 2020

A lighter, slightly quirky vintage that succeeds through tension and texture rather than scale.

2017
Rating: 96
Original rating: 96 – June 2019

Still operating at a very high level. Depth, energy and composure remain impressively intact. Set to go a while yet.

2016
Rating: 92
Original rating: 94 – April 2018

Time has exposed the vintage’s limitations. The fruit has thinned and the finish shortened noticeably. Holding together rather than thriving.

2015
Rating: 96
Original rating: 95 – March 2017

A complete wine. Everything in terms of structure have aligned beautifully with age. Currently at peak and showing the rewards of patience.