Mullineux new releases
By Christian Eedes, 7 September 2020
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Andrea and Chris Mullineux.
The attention to detail that Swartland-based Andrea and Chris Mullineux bring to viticulture and winemaking borders on obsessive-compulsive disorder, the happy consequence of this being wines of rare craftsmanship. Tasting notes and ratings for the new releases as follows:
Mullineux Old Vines White 2019
Price: R325 a bottle.
The Old Vines White grows ever more intricate in its assembly – the 2019 consists of 74% Chenin Blanc, 8% Clairette Blanche, 7% Viognier, 6% Grenache Blanc, 2% Semillon, 2% Macabeo and 1% Verdelho – and the result is an ever more complex drinking experience.
The nose has an attractive floral top note before citrus and peach plus spice and a little earthiness while the palate has good weight and texture (alcohol is 14%) while not being short of freshness. This possesses layers and layers of flavour, the finish long and gently savoury.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
Mullineux Granite Chenin Blanc 2019
Price: R600
A hint of flinty reduction before pear, white peach, green apple, herbs and spice on the nose. The palate is lean in the best sense with pure fruit, fresh acidity and a saline finish. Elegant and energetic.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
Mullineux Quartz Leliefontein Chenin Blanc 2019
Price: R600
The nose shows yellow fruit plus a funky leesy note – bee’s wax comes to mind. The palate meanwhile is creamy in texture with coated acidity and a gently savoury finish. Broader and a little more rustic than its counterpart above.
CE’s rating: 93/100.
Mullineux Granite Syrah 2018
Price: R1 050
A hint of reduction before red fruit, tea leaf and white pepper on the nose. The palate has lovely shape and texture – pure fruit along with powdery, densely packed tannins while the finish is exceptionally long. Beautifully refined and poised.
CE’s rating: 96/100.
Mullineux Schist Roundstone Syrah 2018
Price: R1 050
A wonderfully complex nose of red and black berries, olive, lavender, fynbos and spice. The palate is extraordinarily vivid with great fruit definition, bright acidity and fine tannins. It’s a very direct, complete wine that should age well over many years.
CE’s rating: 98/100.
Mullineux Iron Syrah 2018
Price: R1 050
Black berries, violets, earth, black pepper and other spice. The palate is dense and weighty with nicely grippy, mouthcoating tannins, the finish super-savoury. As ever, the most forceful of the trio.
CE’s rating: 96/100.
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GillesP | 7 September 2020
I certainly like the Old Vines white and the parcellar Chenin.
What about the regular Syrah? Was it not part of the release? In my opinion this is their more balanced and approachable Syrah.
Christian Eedes | 8 September 2020
Hi Gilles, The 2017 vintage of the standard-label Syrah is what’s currently available – reviewed here: https://winemag.co.za/wine/review/mullineux-syrah-2017/
dion martin | 7 September 2020
Hi there
You say an obsessive attention to detail. Perhaps you could share with us in greater detail what those details are and what the thinking is behind the actions they are taking.
Regards
Dionysus
Christian Eedes | 7 September 2020
Hi Dion, I was lucky enough to spend an afternoon with Andrea and Chris walking the vineyards of Roundstone, their rather beautiful property on the slopes of Kasteelberg, and then tasting with them and believe me when I say time precludes me from transcribing all the insights gained on everything from viticulture to sales and marketing. The wines are set for release later this month and the accompanying fact sheets (not yet posted on their website) will no doubt be comprehensive. I would suggest that if at all possible you make an appointment to visit with them for a truly memorable experience.