Bootylicious.
“Smashable” as a wine descriptor is infra dig in some circles but that’s precisely what the 2017 vintage of the Syrah from Mullineux is. Combining grapes from seven vineyards planted variously on shale, schist and granite across the Swartland, vinification involved 90% whole-bunch fermentation before maturation lasting 14 months in a combination of 225- and 500-litre barrels as well as 2000L-litre foudre, 15% new.
The nose shows red fruit, cinnamon and white pepper plus a hint of fynbos while the palate is juicy and sweet-fruited with plenty of volume and surprisingly soft tannins. Alcohol is 14.5% on the label but you wouldn’t guess so and it goes down very easily. Approximate retail price: R335 a bottle.
CE’s rating: 90/100.
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Old campaigner.
The three wards of Hemel-en-Aarde have a high reputation for Chardonnay when it comes to white wine and Missionvale from Bouchard Finlayson is as prestigious an example as any.
The current-release 2017 was matured for nine months in French oak, 30% new. The nose shows citrus and plenty of leesy character while the palate is rich and round, smooth in texture, the acidity quite gentle. Well balanced and possessing layers of flavour, this is as stately as you might expect. Price: R275 a bottle.
CE’s rating: 91/100.
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Boss.
The current-release The FMC 2018 from Ken Forrester Wines works particularly well. The cuvée has always had a reputation for being a big and bold rendition of Chenin Blanc but what’s striking about this vintage is more the balance and intricacy.
Grapes from a 1974 Stellenbosch vineyard, it was fermented and matured for 12 months in new 400-litre barrels. The nose shows a hint of reduction before pear, lemon, peach and apricot while a note of honeysuckle reveals itself with time in the glass. The palate has a lovely fruit purity and freshness, the finish long and pithy. It’s hardly a lean, underdone wine (alcohol is 13% and RS is 7.6g/l) but all the different elements come together with real clarity. Wine Cellar price: R555 a bottle.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
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A complete entry sample takes the form of a bottle (or bottles in the case of ‘series’) bearing the actual label as it appears in the market place. You may deliver supporting packaging material (e.g. gift box) together with the sample where relevant. This must be accompanied by a copy of the entry form which includes a 150-word creative rationale. You will find a PDF of your entry form attached to your entry confirmation email ready for printing.
Only commercially available beers may be entered. At least 50 six-bottle cases must be available from the date of entry until 31 March and this is subject to verification by the organisers.
Once submitted you will automatically be taken to the Winemag Shop to complete payment for your entry. Each submission requires a separate entry form however one global payment may be made for multiple entries.
Email queries to info@winemag.co.za
Only commercially available spirits may be entered. At least 50 six-bottle cases must be available from the date of entry until 31 March and this is subject to verification by the organisers.
Once submitted you will automatically be taken to the Winemag Shop to complete payment for your entry. Each submission requires a separate entry form however one global payment may be made for multiple entries.
Email queries to info@winemag.co.za
A complete entry sample takes the form of a bottle (or bottles in the case of ‘series’) bearing the actual label as it appears in the market place. You may deliver supporting packaging material (e.g. gift box) together with the sample where relevant. This must be accompanied by a copy of the entry form which includes a 150-word creative rationale. You will find a PDF of your entry form attached to your entry confirmation email ready for printing.
Only commercially available wines may be entered. At least 50 six-bottle cases must be available from the date of entry until 31 March and this is subject to verification by the organisers.
Once submitted you will automatically be taken to the Winemag Shop to complete payment for your entry. Each submission requires a separate entry form however one global payment may be made for multiple entries.
Email queries to info@winemag.co.za
Cup runneth over.
The standard-release Syrah 2017 from Boschkloof in Stellenbosch has a lot to recommend it. It might not be quite as monumental or elaborate as the top-of-the-range Epilogue (the 2017 reviewed here) but then it doesn’t cost as much, either, with it selling for R195 a bottle compared to Epilogue’s price of R765.
The wines are made in a similar fashion, both undergoing 20% whole-bunch fermentation, the standard label getting slightly less new oak – 15% compared to 20% on the Epilogue. The nose on the standard label is less brooding with notes of pelargonium, red and black fruit, pepper and spice while the palate is medium-bodied with fresh acidity and crunchy tannins. All of a piece and quite charming to drink.
CE’s rating: 92/100.
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96/100.
Here are our top wines from the end of last year:
November 2019
Iona Fynbos Chardonnay 2017 – 96 (see the original review here)
Restless River Ava Marie Chardonnay 2017 – 96 (see the original review here)
Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh 2018 – 95 (see the original review here)
Leeuwenkuil Heritage Syrah 2017 – 95 (see the original review here)
December 2019
Artisons Seriesrare The Mothership Chenin Blanc 2018 – 95 (see the original review here)
Delaire Graff The Banghoek 2016 – 95 (see the original review here)
El Bandito Monkey Gone to Heaven Mourvèdre 2019 – 95 (see the original review here)
Lismore Chardonnay Reserve 2018 – 95 (see the original review here)
Lismore Syrah Reserve 2018 – 95 (see the original review here)
Mount Abora Koggelbos Chenin Blanc 2018 – 95 (see the original review here)
Roodekrantz Chenin Blanc 2017 – 95 (see the original review here)
Michael Fridjhon of WineWizard.co.za provides a provocative analysis of the latest Platter’s, particularly concerning the significance of the guide’s ultimate accolade, the 5-Star rating. He writes:
“A quick look through the list of wines the Guide has now given its top accolade to shows a strong bias towards small batch artisanal selections…”
And later:
“My impression this year is that the end result reflects an excessive swing away from styles – and wineries – whose best wines are no less impressive but which are produced in larger-than-ultra-boutique quantities.”
Fridjhon makes the point that the guide judges far more wines than any other ratings agency and inevitably many of the wines presented to the guide are rarely submitted elsewhere. For various reasons, an over-eagerness has arisen among the tasters to reward the “small-batch [and] geeky”.
It’s not clear to Fridjhon how to rectify matters other than all parties concerned making a collective effort to see the guide’s findings in less absolute terms.
Doing good by all sectors of the industry when it comes to ratings is, of course, something that constantly occupies our minds here at winemag.co.za. We were at one point going to limit ratings on the site only to those wines for which producers had paid an entry fee (something that Fridjhon makes reference to in his article) but after an overwhelming reader response, we have stepped back from this decision.
To be completely clear, we will continue with our hybrid model combining the outcome of sighted tastings conducted by me as editor on an ad hoc basis with the more formal findings that were generated by a three-person panel tasting blind.
The advantage of this model is that it’s flexible. Different sorts of producers need ratings for different reasons – a start-up needs a big score to put it on the map whereas an established, large-scale producer is often less concerned about the actual score and simply wants to be seen at the top of the quality stakes when measured against peers on a regular basis.
We also need to re-iterate that there has been a commitment from readers to pay for content in order to underpin the site as business entity. Our respectful suggestion is a financial contribution is R600 a year or R50 a month and to date, we’ve had just over 100 people pledge their support. We are most appreciative, but we still have a long way to go to reach our target of R300 000 by the end of 2020.
To contribute, click here.
Of a place.
Delaire Graff in Stellenbosch has long had a Cape Bordeaux red blend in the form of the Cab-driven Botmaskop, the current-release 2017 selling for R295 a bottle, and this is now joined by The Banghoek, maiden release 2016 consisting of 53% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, 9% Petit Verdot and 3% Malbec, maturation lasting 16 months in French oak, 60% new.
It’s a superbly crafted effort. The nose shows red and black fruit, floral perfume and attractive notes of vanilla and spice while the palate is full bodied but wonderfully well balanced. Great depth of fruit and plenty of structure, this is a luxurious wine which impresses more and more with each sip. Price: R1 800 a bottle.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
Find our South African wine ratings database here.
Attention: Reviews like this take time and effort to create. We need your support to make our work possible. To make a financial contribution, click here. Invoice available upon request – contact info@winemag.co.za
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