Malu Lambert: Where wine people eat
By Malu Lambert, 3 February 2025
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Though it’s been open since 1987, I only recently (very much) enjoyed my first lunch at Decameron in Stellenbosch. Named for a 14th-century collection of short stories by Giovanni Boccaccio, the food is correspondingly Italian. It immediately made my running mental list of places that wine-people frequent. Restaurants with curated pairing menus, and places where wine people actually eat are often two different things. Decameron fits the latter description perfectly. The food is unpretentious, the service warm and welcoming – and, of course, they have a banger of a wine list.
Over steaming, cheesy cannoli washed down with two chenins, one French, the other, Secateurs from AA Badenhorst Family Wines, I took in the ambience. Waiters studying oenology at the universtity, family photos and sentimental art on the walls, a shelf stacked with owner Mario Ladu’s homemade chili sauce. Fittingly this lunch was with two of South Africa’s wine fraternity stalwarts, wine and tourism consultant André Morgenthal and former Chenin Blanc Association manager Ina Smith, among other things we talked about the premiumisation of Chenin Blanc.
Still family run, Mario’s daughter, Rosie Ladu is the front-of-house manager. “When Decameron opened, Stellenbosch didn’t have many restaurants and so it became a good spot for business meetings, especially for the wine industry,” says Rosie.
Before becoming a restaurateur, Mario built Bergkelder’s wine tanks. “I’m sure his connections got the place going,” adds Rosie. “And they just never stopped coming.”
Unsurprisingly, Stellenbosch has a few of these places. There’s the Fat Butcher across the road, long attended to by local vinophiles. More recent additions to the list are nearby De Warenmarkt, which is quickly gaining a wine following, as is De Eetkamer. Of the latter chef-patron Marco Cardoso reckons those in the trade like coming to his restaurant as there ‘aren’t any rules’ when it comes to ordering from his small plate menu and they tend to enjoy the variety. “It’s a lovely sight to see a table full of dishes with numerous different bottles of wine.”
Another institution, Genki, serving sushi and Japanese tapas, is hidden in a courtyard just off Church Street. Open since 2009 the unassuming restaurant is charm personified, tables outside are scattered under the oaks, the food is precise, fresh and clean and the owners Richard and Charlene Waite are hands-on.
“They all tend to be purists at heart,” says Charlene, referencing her wine industry guests. She knows her clientele well. “André Morgenthal loves hamachi. Coenie Snyman [Rock of Eye], nigiri. Charl Ellis [Neil Ellis Wines] loves the Tako Sunomono [octopus salad], and Nic van Aarde [Oldenburg] is partial to the chicken and celery dumplings. While Ken Forrester opts for sushi but when he has guests he adds bao buns…”
Speaking of, Ken’s restaurant 96 Winery Road is an oenophile fixture. “It’s known locally as La Cantina, as in the industry canteen,” says Ken. “We were the first South African wine list to be recognised by Wine Spectator in their awards. We’ve always supported multiple wineries – at one point we had 550 different wines.” He says their first list was organised under ‘Local’ for Stellenbosch and ‘Foreign’, which had everything from Paarl to Portugal.
As for estates only offering their own wines at their restaurants, Ken declares this ‘nuts’, ‘why would you limit the experience like that?’
Another estate who subscribes to the philosophy of more is more, is Joostenberg. Fifth generation owner Tyrrel Myburgh posits that ‘wine people are all foodies at heart. Everything we do is real, we don’t skimp on flavour and ingredients, and we’re welcoming to our neighbours – and stock their wines.’ Joostenberg is made up of two farms on opposite sides of the N1; Klein Joostenberg features a bistro, brewery and deli, while Joostenberg Estate is home to the tasting room and The Kraal Restaurant.
“Ian Naudé bring all his dogs and you see them running around on the big lawn, the Griers have been a part of the furniture for the last 25 years… There’s this appreciation of real food and real people.” Case-in-point, the ed (Christian Eedes) celebrated his 50th birthday at The Kraal Restaurant.

Heading into town, there’s A Tavola in Claremont, an Italian restaurant beloved by the wine cognoscenti – and of course, the legendary Magica Roma in Pinelands. This must be the ultimate wino den; with its quintessential ristorante feel; cosy booths, wood-panelled ceilings and dimmed lighting.
Magica Roma was opened in the ’80s by chef-patrons Franco Zezia, originally from Lombardy and Piedmontese Ezio De Biaggi, and has been going strong ever since, with a focus on seasonal ingredients – porcini season is a highlight – and classical cooking.
“Our relationship with the industry goes way back to Wine Magazine days with Mr Eedes senior, who often would bring guests to do tastings and pairings,” says Ezio.
“Today we are blessed to call Christian Eedes, Jacqueline Lahoud, Michael Fridjhorn and Emile Joubert, among many others, as regular guests in our backroom with its wall of wine bottles.”
Emile is also perhaps the most famous of all regulars at Dias, the iconic Portuguese taverna in the inner city, established in 1988 (they now also have other locations). “The only crisis is when they are out of Casal Garcia, a wine that tastes different, better in culinary establishments such as these. Under usual conditions, a bottle is already waiting on my table as I slip into the plastic chair,” says Emile. “An exception was when Schalk-Willem Joubert joined me, bearing a bottle of Pichon-Longueville, an unexpectedly good match with trinchado and buttered rolls. It’s the kind of place that reminds me what wine is made for. Tasty food, conviviality and the guilt-free pleasures of indulgence.”
“The food speaks for itself with most regulars choosing the same meal through the decades,” says Ramon Goncalves, a junior partner in the company. “We find this lack of change means those that are inclined to the vine end up returning with different cultivars to pair with their favourite dish.
“On a few occasions wine has acted as a commodity for those unable to pay the 10 per cent service… We won’t name and shame.” Ramon says that ‘uncle Roy’ was tasked with approving the wine presented as Fiat currency. Uncle Roy, ‘Cape Town’s longest-serving barman’ is a wine-lover himself and was known to finish his shift with a bottle of ‘Drostdy Hof Grand Cru’.
It would be remiss not to mention Chapman’s Peak Hotel in this vinous roll-call. Featuring a Portuguese menu, a wide terrace with ocean and mountain views – and one of the best wine lists in the country, with certainly the most interesting selection of chenin on it. Choose one of those with the famous calamari and you won’t be sorry.

Our last stop takes us along Chapman’s Peak Drive to beachy Noordhoek, and to my local, The Foodbarn. Domain of celebrated chef and owner, Franck Dangereux. Not only does Franck host regular winemaker events and tastings, but he collaborates with producers to bring out Foodbarn-branded wines. His list of collaborators is impressive, with the likes of John Loubser of Silverthorn, Trizanne Barnard, Rudi Schultz of Thelema and Schultz Family Wines, Catherine Marshall, Roger Burton of Constantia Royale, Ken Forrester all bottling wines with him from specially selected barrels and sites.
When asked why producers flock to his deep south haven, Franck simply states: “I respect their wine without getting too pompous.”
That’s exactly it, Franck, wine people tend to appreciate an authentic experience – and stripping away the pomp has the advantage of making fine wines shine all the brighter.
Let’s take this to the comments—any cherished memories or favorite dishes from these wine haunts? And who have I overlooked?
- Malu Lambert is freelance wine journalist and wine judge who has written for numerous local and international titles. She is a WSET Diploma alum and won the title of Louis Roederer Emerging Wine Writer of the Year 2019, among many other accolades. She sits on various tasting panels locally and abroad. Follow her on X: @MaluLambert
Barry Kok | 4 February 2025
A lovely article and authentic review. As with wine, different strokes for palates. I have not conquered #5, though the rest I have enjoyed not only for my passion of wine, but people. The folk you make mention of are stalwarts and always show up with a giving hand (industry and beyond). I am all for an outward mindset. Contrarily, and as one example may spell out, I am all for the Winemaker’s Lunch at Rust & Vrede. The ambiance and relaxed though professional approach and environment enhance my palate experience….
Christian Eedes | 3 February 2025
Two crucial additions to the list are Noop in Paarl and Table Seven in Salt River. Two great places for a long lunch and good wine that are unfortunately no more are La Tête in Cape Town and Harlequins in Parow…