Alheit Gone South Chenin Blanc 2022

Does the wine that could have been Magentic North 2022 deserve declassification? Grapes from two ungrafted Skurfberg vineyards, Chris Alehit felt it wasn’t quite up to standard and has released it as “Gone South” selling for around R450 a bottle whereas the last vintage of Magnetic North, which was 2020, went for around R810 (no 2021 due to a faulty tank gasket).

Alheit, I think, is being overcautious. Aromatics are beautiful – flowers, fynbos, hay, citrus and peach while the palate is vivid and compelling – concentrated fruit, electric acidity and a super-dry, slightly bitter finish. Great texture but also drive. Great proportions all-round. Some might say it lacks the depth of previous vintages whereas I would argue that it gains in elegance. Alc: 13%.

CE’s rating: 98/100.

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