Cape Bordeaux Red Blends 2009 revisited

Just how good was the 2009 vintage in South Africa? How does South Africa stack up against its international counterparts? How much is score inflation skewing wine assessment? All of these issues were up for debate at a recent tasting when a small group of enthusiasts got to blind taste 15 examples of Bordeaux-style wines from South Africa pitched against four relatively modest examples from the great wine region in southwestern France itself.

The 2009 is highly regarded (on account of the preceding wet winter and then a later harvest due to cooler weather in December and January) and most of the wines are holding well enough – there is a sense that local viticulture and winemaking has come a long way in the subsequent 15 years, specifically a better understanding of what constitutes optimal ripeness and more sensitive extraction and oaking.

That said, my two top wines – MR de Compostella and Rustenberg Peter Barlow were genuinely outstanding and could hold their own in any company (it bears mentioning that the Peter Barlow was top red overall with a rating of 94 when Winemag.co.za tasted the 2009 vintage for the 10-Year-Old Report five years ago).

95
MR De Compostella 2009
Red and black berries, a pleasant leafy quality, earth and pencil shavings on the nose. The palate shows lovely clarity and definition – great depth of fruit, fresh acidity and fine, powdery tannins. Still vital, it’s maturation journey far from complete.

95
Rustenberg Peter Barlow 2009
Cassis, some leafiness and earth on the nose. Full bodied but beautifully balanced – dense fruit matched by fresh acidity, the finish long and dry.

Ratings for the rest of the line-up:

94
Château Capbern Gasquetion 2009 – Saint-Estèphe

93
Le Petit Haut Lafitte 2009 – Pessac-Léognan

92
Château Potensac 2009 – Médoc
De Toren Z 2009
Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2009
Tokara Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

91
Delaire Graff Botmaskop 2009 (includes small portion Shiraz)
Morgenster 2009
Thelema Cabernet Sauvignon 2009

90
Boekenhoutskloof Franschhoek Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Fleur de Thenac 2009 – Bergerac

89
De Trafford Cabernet Sauvignon 2009
Ernie Els CWG 2009 (60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Shiraz, 10% Merlot)
Glen Elly Lady May 2009

87
De Toren Fusion V 2009