Colombo new releases

Daniel Colombo grew up on the Paarl property that is today Brookdale, his family selling grapes to producer-wholesalers like KWV and Perdeberg. In the mid-2010s, when he was in his early 20s, he spent time in first Barcelona and then Amsterdam, where he says he got “sucked into the natural wine wormhole”.

He returned to South Africa where he worked front-of-house at Steenberg and then, in 2019, took a position at the newly opened Leo’s Wine Bar. In 2020, with Covid-19 lock-down looming, he escaped to France and worked a harvest with Tom Lubbe of Domaine Matassa in Roussilon. He started making wine under his own label in 2021. Tasting notes and ratings for the new releases as follows:

Rosie Rosé 2024
Price: R195
Named after daughter. A blend of 40% Colombar from Paarl, 40% Cinsault and 20% Syrah, both from Swartland. Fermented and matured in old 225-litre barrels, half of the Colombar undergoing skin contact. Lemon, orange, raspberry, potpourri and a touch of reduction on the nose. The palate is light and fresh with an intensely savoury finish. Piquant and more-ish. Leans more towards “beginner orange wine” than your typical rosé.

CE’s rating: 90/100.

Like Seeing You For The First Time Again White Blend 2024
Price: R300
52% Colombar from Paarl, 48% Muscat from Goudini that underwent co-fermentation in old 500L barrels. Enchanting aromatics of floral perfume, herbs, and citrus. The palate is surprisingly full for a wine with just 11% alcohol, yet it maintains a lovely freshness, with a lightly grippy finish. Full of charm.

CE’s rating: 91/100.

Can’t Do Without You Colombar 2024
Price: R300
Can Colombar take oak? Colombo believes so, this wine fermented and matured for nine months in old 500L barrels. The aromatics are elusive yet intricate with notes of stone fruit, citrus, and even some mango and melon as well as earth and some leesy complexity. The palate is quite broad and texture with bright acidity and a gently savoury finish. While not hugely intense, it’s more intriguing than many examples of this variety.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

There’s Something About You Muscat D’Alexandrie 2024
Price: R300
Grapes from a Skurfberg vineyard on its own roots planted sometime in the early 20th century. The winemaking process involved three batches, each with different skin maceration durations: five days for the first, seven days for the second, and 14 days for the third. Matured for nine months in old 500L barrels. Beguiling aromatics of marmalade, peach, apricot, potpourri, rose geranium, and honey. The palate showcases excellent fruit expression and vibrant acidity, with some light phenolic grip on the finish. A fascinating wine, full of nuance and beautifully balanced. While the 2023 showed promise, this vintage is a revelation.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

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