David & Nadia Single Vineyard series
By Christian Eedes, 1 August 2019
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Three’s company.
“The idea is not to make the perfect wine but to bottle an honest representation of the soil,” says David Sadie of Swartland label David & Nadia of his Single Vineyard project cuvées, which is amusing because if not perfect, these are quite extraordinary and profound, no less so in 2018 despite the drought that was in full swing.
David & Nadia Hoë-Steen Chenin Blanc 2018
Grapes from a 1968 vineyard on iron and clay-rich soils west of Malmesbury planted according to massale selection – at least two clones of Chenin Blanc as well as a few other varieties in the mix. The nose shows some struck-match reduction to go with pear, peach and lemon while the palate is pretty close to complete – great fruit definition and a lovely line of acidity make for an exceptionally vivid, seamless wine. Total production: 2 000 bottles.
Editor’s rating: 97/100.
Skaliekop Chenin Blanc 2018
Grapes from a 1985 vineyard planted on shallow shales soils on Paardebosch farm. Very pretty, beguiling aromatics with notes of flowers, citrus and peach while the palate has a real presence – excellent fruit concentration and tangy acidity before a long finish. Hugely satisfying to drink. Total production: 1 200 bottles.
Editor’s rating: 96/100.
Plat’bos Chenin Blanc 2018
Maiden vintage of a 1981 vineyard planted on granite right next to the Skaliekop vineyard. An elusive nose of pear, peach, lime and dried grass. Lean of body and linear – “nervy” acidity and a pithy finish. Possessing great poise, this is an arresting wine and arguably the most geeky of the three. Total production: 1 200 bottles.
Editor’s rating: 96/100.
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Kwispedoor | 1 August 2019
I’ve just tasted these and they are undeniably beautiful and individual.
I agree that Hoë Steen probably only just shades the other two at the moment (so complex and complete, especially considering its infancy). Perhaps one would feel differently about them relative to each other once a decade or two has passed, perhaps not.
As exciting as it is going to be to see where the SA wine scene goes in the next decade, I’m almost more excited to see where the wines that have already been made end up.