Eikendal Mon Désir Chardonnay 2018

The maiden vintage 2017 of Mon Désir Chardonnay from Eikendal was remarkable in how lean and severe it was. Grapes from Elgin, the clone in question was CY277, more usually associated with sparkling wine. As for winemaking, it underwent spontaneous fermentation entirely in tank before maturation lasting 14 months in older oak, only 10% malolactic fermentation allowed, alcohol 11.5% and total acidity 7.6g/l – it rated 87 in the Prescient Chardonnay Report of 2018.

The newly released 2018 vintage is a little less extreme, fermentation started in tank but completed in barrel, 25% of which was new, alcohol 12.5% and total acidity 6.7 g/. The nose shows lemon, the merest hint of flinty reduction and subtle notes of vanilla and oatmeal. The palate is surprisingly rich and concentrated, although there’s also plenty of freshness while the finish is gently savoury. Probably a good year or two from showing at its best. Price: R320 a bottle.

CE’s rating: 90/100.

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