Keermont new releases

Where to place Stellenbosch property Keermont in the hierarchy of South African fine wine producers?  Some wineries shoot to fame, whereas there’s more of a slow burn for others. The Wraith family bought this Stellenbosch property in 2003 and appointed the incumbent Alex Starey in 2005 to oversee both vineyards and winemaking. My sense is that Keermont are finally hitting their stride – the aesthetic is old-school in the sense that Starey favours full-ripeness but his wines are resolutely dry and if that’s your preferred style, then this is this property for you. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:

Terrasse 2022
Price: R268

46% Chenin Blanc, 20% Chardonnay, 14% Sauvignon Blanc, 10% Roussanne, 8% Viognier and 2% Marsanne. Complex aromatics of lime, peach, an attractive herbal note, hay and fresh bread. The palate is relatively lean but simultaneously layered and harmonious, the finish possessing a pleasant pithy quality.  Alc: 13.5%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Riverside Chenin Blanc 2020
Price: R550
Grapes from a 1971 vineyard. Citrus, peach, herbs, hay, wet woold and struck-match reduction. The palate is super-dense with well-integrated acidity and a deeply savoury finish. A wine of great presence.

CE’s rating: 96/100.

Topside Syrah 2018
Price: R590
Grapes from a west-facing Stellenbosch Mountain vineyard planted at 350m above sea level on rocky soils. Red berries, fynbos and white pepper on the nose while the palate is slightly less plush and deep than its counterpart below although still full of flavour, the tannins nicely grippy. Alc: 14.5%.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

Steepside Syrah 2018
Price: R590
Grapes from a north-facing Helderberg Mountain vineyard planted at 3o0m above sea level on clay-rich soils. Red and black berries, lily, cured meat and pepper on the nose while the palate is rich and round with powdery tannins – unashamedly opulent in style. No longer entirely primary but still plenty to give. Alc: 14.5%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Syrah 2018
Price: R310
Grapes from Topside and Steepside vineyards but also a cooler site called Sweetwater that is cooler and ripens the latest. Red and black berries, potpourri and white pepper. Medium bodied altogether more accessible than the two single-vineyard wines. Fruit to the fore, the tannins already quite soft. Alc: 14%.

CE’s rating: 91/100.

Pondokrug Cabernet Franc 2018
Price: R590
A curious wine in that it combines a big alcohol (15%) while remaining fresh (TA is g/l) and dry (RS is 1.7g/l). Red and black berries, crushed leaves and a hint of undergrowth. The palate is forceful – rich but still fresh, the tannins firm, the finish super-dry.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Ampitheatre 2017
Price: R640
An effort to make a “Grand Vin” distinctive of the property. 27% Cabernet Franc, 27% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Petit Verdot and Syrah. Red and black berries plus some leafiness on the nose. The palate has all the substance you’d expect from this property but remains elegant – pure fruit, bright acidity, and chalky tannins. Still remarkably youthful, there is lots going on even so. Alc: 14.5%.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

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