Mulderbosch Old Vine Steen Op Hout Chenin Blanc 2022

When Mulderbosch first appeared on the scene in the 1990s, with doctor Larry Jacobs as owner and the maverick, Rumi-quoting Mike Dobrovic as winemaker, it was one of the coolest brands around. What to make of it as a wine entity now is less certain, several ownership and winemaker changes later.

In any event, the Old Vine Steen Op Hout Chenin Blanc 2022 is excellent. Grapes from a Helderberg property planted in 1978, it was fermented and matured for 12 months in 1,500-litre foudre.

Quince, citrus, apricot, ginger and some leesy complexity on the nose precedes a palate that’s dense but not too thick-textured or greasy – great depth of fruit and tangy acidity before a savoury, slightly grippy finish. Powerful yet poised (alc: 13%). Price: R315 a bottle.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

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