Roodekrantz new releases

What is “transparency” in wine? If it’s the intention on the part of the production team to show the influence of site with the minimum of artifice in the cellar, then this is very much the ethos behind Roodekrantz, the joint venture between former Windmeul export manager Marius Burger, son Marius Junior and winemaker Danie Morkel.

The range largely showcases old-vine Chenin Blanc and winemaking for this is the same throughout – inoculation with a neutral yeast so that the fermentation process doesn’t obscure terroir, maturation lasting 10 months in older oak. Tasting notes and ratings for the new releases as follows:

1983 Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2022
Price: R150
Grapes from the same Paardeberg vineyard that supplies Rhenosterbosrug. Matured for 10 months, 90% in tank and 10% in barrel. Peach, tangerine and hay on the nose while the palate has good fruit concentration and well-integrated acidity. Deep and smooth textured in the best sense. Alc: 13.57%.

CE’s rating: 90/100.

Rhenosterbosrug Chenin Blanc 2022
Price: R300
Subtle aromatics of citrus and peach plus traces of hay, herbs and earth. The palate is understated and doesn’t have quite the same clarity and tension as the previous vintage (2022 marked by heatwaves in the lead-up to harvest) – a wine that intrigues on account of its elusiveness. Alc: 12.69%.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Die Kliphuis Chenin Blanc 2022
Price: R370
From a vineyard on the of the Paardeberg planted in 1976 on granite. Pear, peach, citrus, hay and herbs on the nose while the palate has a striking tension about it – a dense core of fruit is matched by snappy acicdity before a finish that manages to be pithy in texture and saline in flavour. Direct and focused. Alc: 12.3%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

1974 Old Bush Vine Chenin Blanc 2022
Price: R300
Grapes from a Paarl vineyard on shale. Peach, nectarine and honeysuckle on the nose while the palate is rich and round with tangy acidity – well balanced and full of flavour. Alc: 14.01%.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

Brand se Berg 2022
Price: R300
Grapes from a Paarl vineyard planted in 1975 on granite with a slightly higher clay content. Exotic aromatics of stone fruit, melon and pineapple. Generous fruit and moderate acidity before a gently savoury finish. Again one of the plusher wines in the range as you would expect from this district. Alc: 13.14%.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

Donkermaan Chenin Blanc 2022
Price: R370
Grapes from a Helderberg vineyard planted in 1976 – the last vintage to be made as the farm in question was subsequently sold and replanted. The nose is complex with leesy complexity preceding citrus and peach with traces of flowers and herbs in the background. Great fruit definition matched by bright acidity, the finish long and savoury. Wonderfully poised with layers of flavour. Alc: 12.45%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

1954 Old Bush Vine Cinsaut 2022
Price: R300
Grapes from a Paarl vineyard planted in 1954 on shale. 15% whole-bunch fermentation. Enticing aromatics of red cherry, cranberry and plum plus herbs and earth. Pure fruit, lemon-like acidity and powdery tannins – delivers a lot of flavour for a wine with an alcohol of just 12.42%.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

1976 Old Bush Vine Pinotage 2021
Price: R300
The first of only two vintages from a Helderberg vineyard on granite. Conspicious minty, herbal notes but also red cherry, flowers and earth on the nose while the palate has pure fruit, bright acidity and tannins that are firm to the point of astringent. An example of the variety that’s very much New Wave in style that comes across as a bit rustic but equally full of character. Alc: 13.05%.

CE’s rating: 91/100.

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