Tokara Telos vertical: 2015 – 2019

G.T. Ferreira, co-founder of Rand Merchant Bank and later founding chairman of FirstRand, acquired the Stellenbosch property that became Tokara in 1994. A cellar was built in 1999, with the first harvest following a year later; the first Tokara wines, from the 2003 vintage, were released in 2005.

A project of no small ambition, a wine that aspired to icon status was launched in 2018: Telos 2015, essentially a single-vineyard Cabernet Sauvignon. A recent five-vintage vertical suggests that while Telos is not yet in the peerless category, it is not far off.  

What distinguishes Telos is not power but poise: it achieves concentration without heaviness and authority without bombast. The vertical also demonstrates that longevity need not depend on weight. Across the vintages, freshness, acidity and fine-grained tannin provide the architecture for ageing.

2015
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Malbec, 3% Merlot. Matured for 22 months in barrel, 63% new. Good depth of colour, the rim still violet. Red and black berries, cigar box, pencil shavings and earth on the nose. Medium bodied with excellent clarity of fruit, bright acidity, the tannins still present, fine and tightly knit. Showing great refinement and poise, with plenty of potential to develop further. Alc: 14%.

CE’s rating: 97 | Classic

2016
93% Cabernet Sauvignon, 5% Petit Verdot, 2% Cabernet Franc. Matured for 22 months in barrel, 60% new. Brick red with a mahogany tinge to the rim. The nose shows some meat-stock like tertiary character in addition to red berries, dried herbs and vanilla. The palate is mellow and nicely resolved, the finish gently savoury. Ready to drink. Alc: 14.5%.

CE’s rating: 94 | Serious

2017
92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot. Matured for 22 months in barrel, 65% new. Dark red, clear and bright. The most effusive nose of the line-up, with red and black berries, floral fragrance, vanilla and attractive oak spice. The palate is full, with moderate acidity, supple tannins and a creamy texture. Impressive fruit weight, with a polished, luscious, even opulent character. Alc: 14.5%.

CE’s rating: 96 | Luxurious

2018
90% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Petit Verdot, 3% Malbec. Matured for 22 months in barrel, 65% new. Dark red in colour, with just a touch of orange at the rim. Aromas of red and black berries are complemented by a leafy, herbaceous note that adds interest. The palate is clean and fresh, with bright acidity and a long, resolutely dry finish thanks to firm tannins. Slightly hollow through the mid-palate, giving the wine a faintly quirky, angular quality. The imperfections precisely what hold the attention. Alc: 14.5%.

CE’s rating: 95 | Distinctive

2019
Current release – total production: 1,000 bottles.
Price: R5,600

92% Cabernet Sauvignon, 8% Petit Verdot. Matured for 22 months in barrel, 65% new. Deep black in colour, with no sign of discolouration. Aromas of red and black berries mingle with floral perfume, a touch of greenness and pencil shavings. The palate is relatively light and elegant, with plenty of freshness, fine tannins and a pleasantly austere finish. Already drinking well, but There is no excess here, and that restraint should serve it well in further maturation. Alc: 14%.

CE’s rating: 95 | Delicious

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