That wine changes with time in the bottle is a given, but it’s not often that the alterations over 12 months are as dramatically positive as in the case of Vuurberg White 2011. When I tasted it a year ago for the 2013 edition of Platter’s, I noted it “need(ed) time to open up” and rated it 3½ Stars (roughly equivalent to a rating of 86/100).
Sharing a bottle with winemaker Donovan Rall over lunch today at the excellent Burrata restaurant in Woodstock, I was much more impressed. A blend of Chenin Blanc, Viognier, Semillon, Grenache Blanc and Roussanne, it’s more expressive than it used to be. The Semillon component seems particularly to the fore lending the wine green melon and crushed herbs but there’s also peach and spice and a slightly yeasty note. It’s rich and round, thick textured, almost oily but balanced by a good line of acidity. The pH is 3.22 so expect it to stick around for a while.