Greg Sherwood MW: 2021 – the Cape’s next great Cab vintage

If you have been following numerous wine commentators and wine social media accounts of late, you would have found it pretty difficult to miss all the debates comparing the 2015 to the 2017 vintage in the Cape.

Without a question of a doubt, both are vintages that are developing into two of South Africa’s most revered and collectable. As 2017 hits the ten-year mark in a few months’ time, this debate is sure to intensify further – the ten-year landmark normally regarded as a key quality marker for assessing the Cape’s top reds.

Indeed, I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t also quite drawn to a recent blind tasting held by famous South African sommelier, Higgo Jacobs, where he compared the 2015 and the 2017 releases of Meerlust Rubicon, Stark Condé Three Pines, Kanonkop Paul Sauer and Glenelly Lady May Cape Bordeaux blends. At nine years and eleven years old respectively, it seems a good time to make some new ageing assessments as many consumers and collectors alike will be thinking about starting to pull corks, if they haven’t started doing so already.

2015 vs 2017: The debate continues

Looking at the results, they certainly seemed to be inconclusive. The Meerlust Rubicon 2015 – a legendary wine – was considered “cracking” and preferred to the 2017. The Stark Condé Three Pines 2015 was also preferred over the 2017. For the Kanonkop Paul Sauer, the adjudication was a little closer, the 2017 Paul Sauer just pipping the famous Tim Atkin MW 100-point 2015, though both were noted as being the “wines of the night.” Finally, the exceptional 2017 Lady May was also preferred over the 2015, but it was noted that the wines both shared many similarities.

The conclusions drawn from this little tasting was that the differences between the two vintages, when tasted blind, was not as easy to distinguish as would be expected. More importantly, out of the eight wines, all were considered still in an upward trajectory of development and can, or should, be cellared for longer. Both vintages are living up to expectations as collectable fine wines for the long haul.

2021 – the next one to watch

But with very few of these wines still on the market, I thought it would be far more helpful and insightful for Winemag.co.za readers to highlight another recent tasting I went to in London – The Cabernet Collective’s Stellenbosch Vintage 2021 Tasting – held at the ‘new’ mecca of South African fine dining and fine wine, Kudu Restaurant at 7 Moxon Street, Marylebone. (Do pop in for lunch or dinner if you are visiting London, and ask for Brian Tapera, the very capable Zimbabwean sommelier!)

For those that don’t know, the Stellenbosch Cabernet Collective is a group of Stellenbosch producers brought together with the aim of “curating the expression of Stellenbosch through Cabernet Sauvignon”. They are joined together in sharing passion, discovery and knowledge. “It is to Stellenbosch that we look for the classic and elegant Cabernet Sauvignons that sit comfortably on the global stage, shoulder to shoulder with the world’s most revered wines,” organizer Billie Lambrechts will tell you.

As a reminder, the 2020 post-harvest period was characterised by very hot and dry conditions, which led to early leaf fall, especially in early ripening cultivars. The winter rainfall started late, but regular cold fronts contributed almost 100mm more precipitation than in the previous season. The budding period was particularly cool and wet, and low soil temperatures delayed bud break by up to 14 days, with bud break for later cultivars such as Cabernet Sauvignon developing evenly.

Despite sustained cool conditions, the flowering and fruit set periods were moderate and ideal. Véraison followed the seasonal trend and was generally up to 14 days later than the previous season. Ripening was consistently about 10-14 days later than the previous year, and the ripening period was very moderate. This resulted in good hang times, minimal harvesting pressure and allowed for optimal picking.

Although yields were lower, the grape compositions and preliminary wine quality of the 2021 vintage showed immediate promise. Despite the cooler conditions, the red cultivars generally achieved ideal sugar and alcohol levels, with lower pHs and higher acidities than in other recent seasons. The wines, overall, have intensity and freshness coupled with very fine, linear tannin structures – all the building blocks for yet another excellent, ageworthy Cape vintage.

Top five

1 – Tied

Le Riche Reserve 2021, 14.5% – Dense and intense, perfumed with cassis and violets, salty crème de cassis, black cherries and dusty stony minerality. Full and impressive in the mouth, satin texture with a bold concentration, plush mineral tannins and a focused, powerful finish. Wow! True class. 97/100 GSMW

1 – Tied

Thelema Mountain Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon 2021, 14% Abv. – Beautifully seductive perfume of violets, black currants and black cherry kirsch liquor. Super polished marble tannins, tight knit, fine grained and simply delicious. Well integrated acids lend extra frame and linearity before a tart, vibrant, tangy black berry laden finish. Simply benchmark! 97/100 GSMW

2

Oldenburg Rondekop Per Se 2021, 14.64% Abv. – This is a classy, slightly broody expression of top-class Cab, showing violet and white flower perfume, notable minerality and layers of earthy black berry fruits, saline cassis, cherry pipe tobacco, and delicate cedar notes. The palate is taut and polished, effortlessly weightless and bright with a tight grained classy finessed finish. Very smart indeed. 96+/100 GSMW

3 – Tied

Meerlust 2021, 13.7% Abv. – Tight and broody, this has closed up into a more mineral expression with graphite and cedar, crushed stones, black berries and black orchard fruits. Sleek and subtle, this suggests a lot but is holding back the full fireworks. Texture of silk, fabulous tension and beautifully fine-grained tannins with a wet stone minerality on the finish. Very serious and seriously classy. 96/100 GSMW

3 – Tied

Bellevue Reserve 2021, 14% Abv. – Rich exotic black fruits layer the palate supported by an attractive perfume of violets, cherry blossom and sweet blueberries. The palate is so polished and fine with chalky tannins, a super fine-grained texture and a harmonious focused finish. Real class. 96/100 GSMW

4

Delaire Graff Reserve 2021, 14.8% Abv. – A masterclass from Morne Vrey, this is complex and multi-dimensional with aromatics of cigar box, oyster shell, graphite and kelp over salty black currant notes. Super polished and sleek, the palate is elegantly fleshy and opulent with a pinpoint focus, chalky granitic tannins, and a cool, taut mineral finish. A very grown-up expression. 95+/100 GSMW

5 – Tied

Cavalli 2021, Helderberg, 14.55% Abv. – Exoticly perfumed nose with violets and white blossoms, red and black currants and subtle hints of sour plum. Cool, creamy and silky with sweet tannins, a delightful tight grained tension, and a pitch perfect balance on the spicy finish. Delightful. 95/100 GSMW

5 – Tied

Journey’s End V4 2021, Helderberg, 14% Abv. – Classical aromatics with violets and cedar spice, potpourri and black currant fruit notes. Silky mouthfeel, real precision and focus, satin tannins but tight knit with an intense persistent concentration on the mineral-laden finish. Top Drawer kit. 95/100 GSMW

Best of the rest:

Alto 2021, Helderberg, 14.5% Abv. – 94+/100 GSMW

Ernie Els Wines Major Series 2021, Helderberg, 13.95% Abv. – 94+/100 GSMW

Rust en Vrede 2021, Helderberg, 14% Abv. – 94+/100 GSMW

Klein Graniet 2021, 14% Abv. – 94+/100 GSMW

Le Riche 2021, Faure, 14.39% Abv. – 94/100 GSMW

Avontuur The West Peak 2021, 14.34% Abv. – 93+/100 GSMW

Waterford 2021, 13.5% Abv. – 93+/100 GSMW

• Greg Sherwood was born in Pretoria, South Africa, and as the son of a career diplomat, spent his first 21 years traveling the globe with his parents. With a Business Management and Marketing degree from Webster University, St. Louis, Missouri, USA, Sherwood began his working career as a commodity trader. In 2000, he decided to make more of a long-held interest in wine taking a position at Handford Wines in South Kensington, London, working his way up to the position of Senior Wine Buyer over 22 years. Sherwood currently consults to a number of top fine wine merchants in London while always keeping one eye firmly on the South African wine industry. He qualified as the 303rd Master of Wine in 2007.