Tim James: Something stirs at Platter’s – but to what end?

In a recent article, Christian Eedes remarked (somewhat cheekily) that “the much-loved Platter’s guide now appears to be nearing the end of a glorious 46-year run”. The recently appointed GM at Platter’s, Christina “Bubbles” Hyland, clearly thought it even more presumptuous than cheeky and offered the comment that “Platters is most definitely not coming to an end.”

Albeit terse, this was a relief to those who would hate to see Platter’s disappear (or change its mission too emphatically) – even if scarcely enough to dispel all doubts. But, given the rumours of a sale and the well-known fact that nothing significant has been done about getting work for the next edition underway, Christian’s remark was not unreasonable. Apart from belatedly appointing a GM, the owner of the Guide, Diners Club, seemed to observers by its silence to be merely continuing its remarkably lax attitude to managing what was once a real treasure of the South African wine industry – and, some would say, continuing its bland incompetence.

No editor, no plan – and mounting uncertainty

The Guide had no editor. Last year, after being kept on past the age when he was originally supposed to retire, long-serving editor Philip van Zyl, had, I believe, been given a new contract that explicitly stated it would not be renewed this year. Despite his long, and I would guess wearisome, relations with his Diners Club bosses, he must have presumed or at least hoped that they would themselves have taken a few steps to ensure some continuity, even if he know nothing about them.

But no. Approaching June, there was no editor, the regular tasters knew nothing of any plan. In brief, apart from the good start of appointing a GM (lacking for some years, all the extra work being picked up by van Zyl)  there was nothing being done to get the huge process of producing the next edition of Platter’s started. There were rumours that the Guide was for sale … had been sold … was virtually sold…. Industry people then  became aware that the editorship was being offered around sequentially to a number of people. No-one seemed willing to take it on. Hardly surprisingly given that everyone knew what a big job it was and also knew the reputation that Diners Club had earned for itself as owner.

Bubbles Hyland.

Hence Christian’s remark. And Ms Hyland’s rebuttal. 

I had long been hoping that some journalist would try to follow up the matter, which is in fact of some concern to the wine industry (despite some uncertainties about the Guide’s continuing relevance, especially given that an ever-increasing number of producers declined to participate, and the design of the Guide still seemed the result of thinking little had changed since 1980 except the coming and going of fax numbers). But there was no investigation into the situation, and I felt that I should stand back  from trying to elicit the facts, given that I had once been deeply involved in Platter’s and had resigned a few years ago as a taster and Associate Editor (see here for my reasons for resigning, in an article which gave offence to at least some principal players). I wasn’t at all sure that the ex-editor or the current owners would even speak to me.

New rumours circulated! Perhaps something was happening, in terms of both production gearing up and a sale. It really seemed time to forget niceties and see what might be possible to discover, especially as there was a new GM (busily if unsuccessfully hawking around the editorship) to ask. So I wrote to Ms Hyland.

And in fact I got a friendly and partly useful response last Friday. Though some of the usefulness was in omissions and evasions. Ms Hyland attached a formal statement, which, she said, would be “sent to the industry” that day (I’ve seen no evidence of anyone making use of it yet). The email to me was in fact more useful, especially as she added that “Philip van Zyl has returned to Platter’s in an editorial capacity for the 2027 edition”. Another stop-gap appointment, clearly, born of a belated desperation. I have no idea how she persuaded Philip to do another year. I do hope she was obliged to offer a whole whack of payment. Knowing Philip a little, I think it quite possible that he was (also?) moved by a desire to save the Guide that he’d worked so devotedly for over decades. I daresay that, with a bit of trimming and some help, Philip might even get it out this year, if the producers cooperate.

Ms Hyland added that “Matters relating to ownership, commercial discussions, or any potential transactions remain confidential and subject to formal processes and approvals.” The usefulness of the sentence is merely to essentially confirm that weighty matters are indeed being conducted. A sale, presumably? The mention of “formal processes and approvals” I do, for some reason, find ominous – though it possibly explains why Diners Club is being so unforthcoming about selling Platter’s (getting rid of the damn thing with a sigh of relief, I suspect would be close to the truth). This is, Ms Hyland says, “a year of transition” – good start, but from what to what?

The press release itself added little of interest. Bland in the extreme, it mostly confirmed the brief comment made on this website and said that “work on the 2027 edition is actively underway”, though “certain timelines have required adjustment because of our incompetence” (I admit that the last four words there are my interpolation).  “Further updates will be shared in due course”, we are assured. Oh good. And there is another bit that I find ominous where it says that “Platter’s is also exploring exciting new opportunities around digital integration, broader audience engagement, and enhanced wine-tourism alignment as part of the guide’s future development.” As long as it’s not Diners Club doing the exploring, which would make the description of possibility even more ominous.

“A year of transition” – and what comes next?

Actually, by far the most interesting thing about the press release is that It was headed “Platter’s South African Wine Guide Confirms Work Underway on 2027 Edition”. Do you note how the title is shortened from the usual “Platter’s by Diner’s Club International…”?. In fact, the release only mentions Diners Club very small in the logo.

There is another bit that I find ominous (perhaps because the conjunction of Diners Club intentions and Platter’s now always make me nervous). The release says that “Platter’s is also exploring exciting new opportunities around digital integration, broader audience engagement, and enhanced wine-tourism alignment as part of the guide’s future development.” Could be great, especially if Diners Club is no longer involved as I hope, but is it really likely to be great? Is Philip van Zyl stepping in to save the guide from a fate worse than death? I’m not optimistic. But hope I’m wrong.

• Tim James is one of South Africa’s leading wine commentators, contributing to various local and international wine publications. His book Wines of the New South Africa – Tradition and Revolution appeared in 2013.