Absa Top 10 Pinotage 2008 revisited

Jancis Robinson MW once made the observation that “Perhaps the top 10 per cent of all reds and five per cent of all whites (and those are generous estimates) will be more pleasurable and more interesting to drink when they are five years old than at one year old.”

What of the wines that made the Absa Top 10 Pinotage in 2008? These wines are now in the vicinity of 20 years old so a proper test of their mettle. Seven of them scored 90-plus so could be said to have survived but on the whole, this line-up provided little excitement. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:

1. Stellenzicht Cellarmaster’s Release 2005
Red and black berries, floral perfume and some leafiness on the nose. The palate retains clarity – good fruit expression, bright acidity and fine tannins. Well balanced and drinking very well – has that lovely integration of components that only time in bottle can achieve.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

2.= Anura 2007
Red and black berries, potpourri, dried herbs, cinnamon and white pepper on the nose. The palate is broad and flavourful. Not too advanced – succulent fruit, the tannins still lightly grippy.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

2.= DeWaal Top of the Hill 2006
The nose shows red and black cherry plus a hint of earth. The palate is well balanced with pure fruit, zesty acidity, and tannins that are still quite firm. Clearly an ambitious wine but stops just short of being overdone.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

2.= Simonsig Red Hill 2006
Original Wine magazine rating: Three and a Half Stars – May 2008

Plum and black cherry on the nose. The palate is luscious – sweet, round and soft. Still relatively youthful in terms of aroma and flavour profile, which is to say little evidence of tertiary character.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

5.= Beyerskloof Reserve 2006
Original Wine magazine rating: Two and a Half Stars – May 2008

Aromatics of red cherry, cassis, vanilla and baking spice. Broad and smooth textured with moderate acidity. Fruit still more or less intact but no sense that this wine will benefit from further maturation – drink up.

CE’s rating: 91/100.

5.= Tukulu 2006
Original Wine magazine rating: Three Stars – June 2009

Red and black cherry, prune, a touch of caramel, earth and spice on the nose. The fruit is still intact, but the tannins are now resolved. Not too heavily worked and this is to its credit.

CE’s rating: 91/100.

7. Beyerskloof Diesel 2006
Red cherry, earth, vanilla and spice. The palate is broad and oak-driven. Broad with fine-grained tannins. No great detail but holding well enough.

CE’s rating: 90/100.

8. Cloof 2005
Cherry and plum buts also some more evolved notes – undergrowth, earth and leather. The palate is sweet and somewhat lacking in structure. Not entirely without pleasure but in decline.

CE’s rating: 89/100.

9. Fairview Primo 2007
Baked berry fruit on nose and palate. Sweet, soft and hot on the finish. Lacks form and structure but fruit paradoxically somewhat intact. Alcohol is 15% and it shows.

CE’s rating: 88/100.

10. Rijk’s Private Cellar 2004
Original Wine magazine rating: Three and a Half Stars – May 2008

The nose shows indistinct red berries to go with a varnish-like note. The palate is thin and slightly bitter. No great distinction.

CE’s rating: 87/100.

Footnote: I acquired the collection when I came closest to the official line-up during a tasting session of the 20 finalists, held for guests before the awards ceremony.