Alheit new releases

Chris Alheit of Alheit Vineyards seems a lot more bullish about his wines from the 2023 vintage than the year before. If 2022 was a “mediocre” because of high yields and heat waves in the lead-up to picking which led to low acidities, early-ripening varieties in 2023 came into the cellar in a “convenient sequence” which meant for ease of management. Tasting notes and ratings for the new releases as follows:

Hereafter Here Chenin Blanc 2023
Price: R320
Mostly a young vineyard wine, grapes from Swartland, Piekenierskloof, Bottelary, Polkadraai Hills plus some from older parcels in Paardeberg and Tygerberg. Exotic aromatics of pear, yellow peach, orange and pineapple plus some leesy character. The palate is relatively rich with tangy acidity and a savoury finish. Alc: 13.21%.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Cartology 2023
Price: R465
95% Chenin Blanc and 6% Semillon – the Franschhoek vineyard normally bottled under the Monument label employed here. Expressive aromatics with notes of lime, lemon, white peach, Granny Smith apple and floral perfume. Excellent fruit concentration, plenty of drive and a dry finish. Wonderfully precise, even more remarkable given that production is not inconsiderable, this vintage amounting to 27,405 bottles and 240 magnums.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Fire by Night Chenin Blanc 2023
Price: R594
Grapes from two Paardeberg vineyards planted between 1972 and 1985 on granite. Quite a pronounced note of flinty reduction as well as lime and lemon. Hugely impressive on the palate – great power delivered at low alcohol – 12.49%. Dense with arresting acidity and an olive-brine like finish.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Nautical Dawn Chenin Blanc 2023
Price: R540
Grapes from a vineyard on the southern Stellenbosch farm Rustenhof planted in 1978 on granite. Floral perfume, citrus, peach, hay and fynbos. Pure and fresh on the palate – great fruit delineation, snappy acidity and a pithy finish. Poised and elegant. Alc: 13.54%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

Huilkrans Chenin Blanc 2023
Price: R850
From Skurfberg vineyards planted between 1974 and 1989 on red sand over clay. Forthcoming aromatics of pear, peach, soft citrus, apple, potpourri and earth. The palate is voluptuous – lovely fruit weight, silky texture, well integrated acidity and a gently savoury finish. A wine that hangs together very well and is simply delicious. Alc: 13.33%.

CE’s rating: 97/100.

Magnetic North Chenin Blanc 2023
Price: R850
From two Skurfberg blocks, one planted in 1981 and the other in 1984. Lime, lemon, fynbos, earth and a hint of struck-match reduction on the nose. The palate has great fruit definition and plenty of verve – flavours are subtle and intricate while the acidity is invigorating without being hard or angular. The 2022 vintage was famously declassified and released as Gone South 2022 and if that wine was lithe and nervously energetic, this has more density and directness, both astonishingly good…

CE’s rating: 98/100.

Hemelrand Vine Garden 2023
Price: R411.75
36% Chardonnay, 28% Roussanne, 18% Chenin Blanc, 17% Verdelho, 1% Muscat – the Chenin in particular developing significant but entirely pleasing noble rot. Fermented and matured for 12 months in older oak. Citrus, stone fruit and pineapple to go with notes of potpourri, honey and mushroom on the nose. Dense fruit and driving acidity before a deeply savoury finish. A compelling rendition of this wine. Alc: 13.54%.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

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