Beaumont Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc 2014

Tight as a tiger.

There are a few South African wines which, regardless of vintage or particular rating, have become crucial reference points – Cape Point Vineyards Isliedh, Hamilton Russell Vineyards Chardonnay and Kanonkop Pinotage, for instance.

Though the Beaumonts of Bot River go about their business in a quiet and unassuming way, their Hope Marguerite Chenin Blanc is also one of the modern-day greats.

Vineyards were planted in 1974 and 1978 and the same minimalist winemaking every year – spontaneous fermentation and maturation “from vintage to vintage” (10 months) in 400-litre barrels.

The 2014 has a beguiling nose – some reduction, citrus and white peach, hints of flowers and spice. The palate is lean but not mean with fresh acidity and a long finish. Just a hint of leesy complexity. It’s extremely elegant and shows great winemaking deftness. Price: R205 a bottle.

Winemag rating: 95/100.