Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2023
By Christian Eedes, 19 June 2026
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There’s a sense of a difficult vintage handled exceptionally well when it comes to the newly released 2023 Paul Sauer (price: R1,050) from Simonsberg property Kanonkop. With the industry still reeling from the news that Francois van Zyl resigned “of his own accord” as head winemaker after just two harvests, this was predecessor Abrie Beeslaar’s penultimate vintage. By all accounts, every ounce of viticultural and winemaking expertise was required after heavy rain fell during March, at the critical point of harvest.
A blend of 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Cabernet Franc and 15% Merlot, it matured for 24 months in 100% new oak. The nose is initially a little reduced before revealing red cherry, cassis, pencil shavings and, it must be said, remarkably little greenness beyond an attractive tea leaf note. The palate is medium-bodied, succulent and vibrant, with fine-grained, tightly packed tannins, all that new oak sitting surprisingly lightly. It comes across as exceptionally youthful and beautifully composed, if a touch slight (alcohol is 13% on the label versus 14.47% for the famed 2015).
CE’s rating: 93 | Serious
Also on show was the 2023 Pinotage, a wine that seems elegant rather than underpowered (price: R575). Aromas of cranberry, red currant, Turkish Delight and a hint of vanilla precede a palate that has no shortage of fruit concentration but is less imposing than some vintages. Pure and fresh, with powdery tannins and impressive composure. Alcohol is 14%.
CE’s rating: 94 | Distinctive
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Kwispedoor | 19 June 2026
Even though I haven’t tasted this 2023 yet, Christian, I’m a bit surprised at your score of 93 just from reading your tasting note (and, even though 93 is still a good score, also from comparing it to other wines you have scored the same). Everything seems rather exquisite, right up until the end, when you say “if a touch sight (alcohol is 13%…)”.
If I look back at all the great SA Cabs I’ve had at an ABV of 11.5% to 13% (mostly eighties wines and older, that have matured beautifully over decades), the paradigm shift to modern wines seem quite astounding if a 13% ABV wine that spent 24 months in small all-new oak and had punch downs every two hours can be considered as even remotely slight… Unless of course you only compare it against other big and burly wines.
The recent (always continuing, renewed) debate around sighted vs blind tastings makes me wonder what you might have scored this wine if you didn’t know that there was a large proportion of 2023 Stellenbosch Cab in it. Perhaps the same, sure, but it would have been interesting.
Personally, I’ll still buy certain 14% ABV (and lower) wines on reputation without tasting it, but once it hits 14.5% ABV, I’m not buying it unless I can taste it first. As far as SA Bordeaux-style wines are concerned, I’m particularly interested in wines from suitable cooler sites with great viticulture and a classical disposition. I’m okay if it sometimes means that it drinks a little less easily (firm acidity and tannins) in the first few years, because these are wines that are meant to be matured in any event.
The 2019 Paul Sauer comes to mind. That one also had 13% ABV, and I can’t recall a PS that tasted better to me on release, including the 2015 and 2017. That 2019 was an absolute cracker! Fifteen+ years on, a vertical will be fascinating.
I’m looking forward to tasting this 2023 for myself and reading more reviews of it – sounds like it’s quite classic in style.
Jamie Johnson | 19 June 2026
Kwispedoor, thanks for your comments as always. I always lean towards more elegant, lower ABV wines in general and tend to prefer approachable wines on release like PS 2019. Have you had a chance to taste Le Riche Cab Sauv Reserve 2021 by any chance? I enjoyed the 2020 which also clocked in @ 14.5% – this is the only remaining SA red wine in my cellar at this ABV. Only some Barolos and Etna wines at this level and Skurfberg 25 which I’m very curious to taste in Oct.
Kwispedoor | 19 June 2026
Hi Jamie. Unfortunately, I haven’t tasted the 2021 Le Riche Reserve yet but I’d expect it to be very good, if in the more modern idiom. Talking about higher alcohol wines, I actually really liked the Glenelly Lady May 2019 as well – and that clocks in at a hefty 14.63%! I’d like to taste it next to the 2021, because I tasted them almost two years apart and I think I prefer the 2019 to the more lauded 2021.
I also noted that 14.5% on the new Skurfberg. It (and the Kokerboom) usually handles higher alcohol quite well, but I did wonder by myself why they felt it necessary in such a good vintage to harvest so late. The Magnetic North and Huilkrans both clock in at 13.5% in 2025.
Jamie Johnson | 19 June 2026
Will be very interesting to hear Eben’s reasons as it’s very rare these days for him to release 14.5% wines – last time I remember was Kokerboom 2021. As you say, along with Mev Kirsten and Skurfberg it tends to come in the highest in terms of avg ABV.
I saw on the technical sheets for Skurfberg 2025 that TA was still high up at 6.0g/L (slightly higher than avg) and pH at 3.40 (avg) with yields down from 23 hl/ha in 2022-24 to 20 hl/ha, so he obviously felt it needed that level of ABV to keep things in check. Rotsbank 25 also up to 14.0% for the first time with slightly lower than avg TA of 5.7g/L and Mev Kirsten down at 13.5% with slightly higher than avg pH of 3.50 and lower than avg TA of 5.2g/L.
He has been fairly vocal about how great of a vintage 2025 was, saying it’s the best he has personally seen since 1994 so I’m very excited to taste his new releases in Oct.
Gareth I | 19 June 2026
I recently drank a Skurfberg 16 (14.5%) alongside a Skurfberg 18 (13.5%), and while both were super, I have to say that the 2018 was, subjectively, much better. I was also quite surprised to see that the 2025 is so alcoholic. Will be interesting to see how it turns out, although I doubt it’ll taste anything near its best until 2033 or later if other vintages are anything to go by.
Ashley Westaway | 19 June 2026
I really enjoy the de Trafford Cab, which is generally very close to 15%. David is unapologetic in this regard, for good reason… Vintage after vintage is wonderfully balanced and ages triumphantly, forever.
Greg Sherwood | 19 June 2026
I hate to say it, but once again, I think Christian is judging the vintage not the wine. Having tasted the wine recently with Francois van Zyl in London just before his unexpected departure, I was certainly very impressed by the wine’s “strictness” for want of another word. The acids are fresh but so beautifully embedded in the wine. Many of Abrie’s wines said 13% on the label but were actually 12.8-12.9% in reality. This is my dream ABV level… but of course requires very clever picking and winemaking to make it all work so well, like it does on Kanonkop. I personally hope Kanonkop’s days of 14% or 14.5% Abvs are over and who ever takes over as winemaker would be well served to follow Abrie’s lead and stick to the 13% level where all possible. In the high echelons of global fine wine, the mantra of “less is definitely more” applies and connoisseurs the world over want freshness, elegance and finesse… and as pointed out above, our historical wines of 10.5 to 12.5% Abv have aged far better than most of our brutish 14-15% wines. In this case pH is also important and the 2023 has a lovely “low pH” feel in the mouth… something that I think will hold it in good stead for ageing. I would personally be very happy to age the 2023 Paul Sauer for a long time. It is very hard to escape the challenges of the general 2023 vintage, but as I saw with Meerlust Rubicon 2023 and MR de Compostella 2023, the wines are taut, pure, and structured and lovely acid frames and plenty of fruit and tannin structure for future ageing. Any review that leads with the “difficult vintage conditions” in someway is already drifting off track. Bordeaux see incredibly difficult vintage conditions most vintages yet the best estates handle this with ease nowadays with modern viticulture and modern winery practices. Play the ball not the man… as they say in rugby. The 2023 is a real classical cracker jack wine… and I give it a suitable high rating. In all the years I have been reviewing Kanonkop Paul Sauer and their Cabernet, I am yet to return to a vintage years later and say, shit… I got that one wrong and scored it waaay too high. On the contrary, I am either spot on or possibly too low. A recent tasting of the INCREDIBLE 2012 Paul Sauer was an absolute case in point. Not a lauded vintage… but wow, what an impressive wine. It is simply not feesable to score 2023 Paul Sauer 93 and Kanonkop Kadette 93 as well. Those wheels need rebalancing at Kwikfit!