Boekenhoutskloof Semillon 2020

By , 30 March 2023

A marked note of gun smoke-like reduction seems to be a signature characteristic of the Semillon from Boekenhoutskloof in recent times, the 2020 again showing this.

Grapes come from three Franschhoek sites, two on riverbed alluvial soils, these planted in 1902 and 1942 and one on granite planted in 1936, some of the vines having mutated into Semillon Gris. As for winemaking, this involved spontaneous fermentation and maturation lasting 14 months, 70% in new French oak barrels and 20% in concrete egg. A tiny portion of Muscat d’Alexandrie, skin-fermented and matured in clay amphora, was also included.

Look past that reduction and there’s also peach, nectarine, elderflower, blackcurrant and thatch while the palate is extraordinarily dense with a creamy texture, bright acidity and an intensely savoury finish. Full and forceful, it’s an uncompromising take on what the variety is capable of. Price: R445 a bottle.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

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