Hogan new releases

Volumes of Jocelyn Hogan Wilson’s wines from the 2021 vintage are greatly reduced, the uncertainties engendered by Covid-19 compelling this négociant producer to adopt an extra prudent approach. The wines, however, are as good as ever and fans shouldn’t dilly-dally in securing them. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:

Hogan The Galvanised Chardonnay 2021
Price: R270
100% Banghoek grapes (no Elandskloof as previous vintages have featured). Matured in older oak for 11 months. Some struck-match reduction before citrus and oatmeal on the nose. The palate is surprisingly rich given an alcohol of just 12% but it’s equally beautifully balanced – good fruit definition, snappy but not hard acidity and a gentaly savoury finish.

CE’s rating: 93/100.

Hogan Chenin Blanc 2021
Price: R365
Grapes from the Paardeberg. Matured for 11 months in barrel, 25% new. Citrus, peach and some vanilla on the nose while the palate has a dense core of fruit, vivid acidity and a gently savoury finish. Currently a bit unknit now, the new oak which is not typically applied to this wine lending a creamy heaviness.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Hogan Mirror for the Sun Cabernet Franc 2021
Price: R365
Grapes from Firgrove. Matured for 10 months in barrel, 20% new. Red and black berries plus a definite herbal note – quite heady and singular on the nose while the palate shows clean fruit, bright acidity and fine tannins. Good clarity and drive.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Hogan Divergent 2021
Price: R435
Famously inspired by Chateau Musar, after Wilson heard the late Serge Hochar of the Lebanon property speak at the 2014 Swartland Revolution. Roughly equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan and Cinsault. Extremely attractive aromatics of cranberry, strawberry, cassis, floral perfume and fresh herbs. The palate possesses a dense core of fruit, zippy acidity and grippy yet not astringent tannins. Very nicely envisioned – neither too light nor too heavy. Alcohol: 13.5%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

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