Hogan The Lift NV
By Christian Eedes, 15 June 2021
Unfortified biologically aged wines, that is to say, wines aged under a film of wine yeasts called flor, aren’t in any danger of becoming mainstream but a few producers seem to be trying their hand at this technique. Ryan Mostert has for quite a while used it as a component in his Smiley White NV while Hughes Family Wines also offers the uncertified Nativo Flora 2017.
Jocelyn Hogan Wilson of Hogan Wines has now launched her version of such a wine made up of three vintages of her Swartland Chenin Blanc, specifically 2018, 2019, and 2020, 50% aged under flor. The nose shows preserved lemon plus subtle nutty, yeasty notes while the palate is relatively lean, fresh, and savoury. It’s flavourful without being too untamed and makes a good introduction to wines of this style. Price: R220 a bottle.
CE’s rating: 91/100.
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