Hogan new releases

Jocelyn Hogan Wilson started her own label in 2014, now well established as one of SA’s leading indie winemakers. She works with bough-in fruit, and her approach in the cellar, needless to say, is low intervention. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:

The Galvanised Chardonnay 2023
Price: R300
Grapes entirely from Banghoek (no Elandskloof as was the case in the previous vintage). Matured for 10 months in older oak. Lemon and orange plus hints of nut, vanilla and spice on the nose. Good depth of fruit and intensity of fruit, lively acidity and a savoury finish. Generous and expressive rather than opulent. Alc: 12.8%.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

Chenin Blanc 2023
Price: R400
Grapes from Swartland. Winemaking as above. Gorgeous aromatics – a floral top note precedes pear, peach, lime and lemon with just a hint of flinty reduction in the background. The palate shows great refinement – pure fruit, lip-smacking acidity and a saline finish. A wine of poise and elegance. Alc: 12.65%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

The Lift NV
Price: R275
This marks Hogan’s second release of a Chenin Blanc incorporating multiple vintages (2020 through 2023 in this instance) and some 50% aged under flor. The nose is subtle and intriguing with nutty, rancio notes sitting next to lime, peach and cut apple. The palate is broad with seemingly moderate acidity and a brine-like finish. Quite restrained relative to other examples in this genre. Alc: 12.6%.

CE’s rating: 91/100.

Mirror for the Sun Cabernet Franc 2023
Price: R415
Grapes from a Helderberg vineyard. Rose and red berries plus hints of mint, bay leaf and other herbs. The palate is light-bodied and lively – succulent fruit, fresh acidity and fine tannins, the finish gently savoury. This vintage is already rather open and accessible. Alc: 13.56%.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Carignan 2023
Price: R300
Grapes from Wellington. Red and black cherry, fynbos and spice on the nose. The palate is medium bodied with snappy acidity and a dry finish. Vital and appealing. Alc: 13.5%.

CE’s rating: 92/100.

Divergent 2023
Price: R470
38% Carignan, 38% Cabernet Sauvignon and 24% Cinsault – the Carignan from Wellington, Cab from a young untrellised Helderberg vineyard, the Cinsault is from a 1976 block, also Helderberg. Cranberry and cassis, rose, fynbos and fresh herbs on the nose while the palate shows a dense core of fruit but also plenty of freshness, the tannins fine and mouth-coating. Inspired by the red blend of the great Lebanese winery Chateau Musar, this is again nicely realised. Alc: 13.56%.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

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