Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2021
By Christian Eedes, 20 June 2024
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Few local wines are as revered as the Cape Bordeaux red blend that is Paul Sauer from Stellenbosch property Kanonkop and 2021 is increasingly considered in the same bracket of quality as 2015 and 2017, so the PS from this vintage (price: R995 a bottle) is surely a must-by?
A blend of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and 13% Cabernet Franc, maturation lasted 24 months in 225-litre barrels, 100% new. The nose is currently very primary with notes of red and black berries, rose, tea leaf, vanilla and baking spice plus a little rubbery reduction. The palate is medium bodied with fresh acidity and fine tannins, the wood integration extraordinarily successful. With a moderate alcohol of 13.49%, it’s no doubt an elegant rendition of this wine, so much so that I wonder if it’s not a bit underdone.
CE’s rating: 93/100.
Lest anybody think I’m being contrarian for the sake of it, the Cabernet Sauvignon 2019 was also poured at the release tasting. Beautiful aromatics of cranberry, cassis, some floral perfume, leafiness and subtle notes of vanilla, spice and pencil shavings. The palate has great fruit expression to go with plenty of verve, the finish long and dry. It’s poised, precise and very sophisticated – I rated it 96 on release in July last year and it’s just getting better and better. Price: R595 a bottle.
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Gareth | 25 June 2024
Very interesting, and good on you for speaking your mind. I guess what I’d like to know is what separates this vintage from the 2019? Iirc, 2019 was 12.9% and considered elegant but not underdone, whereas the 2021 at 13.5%.
Jos | 23 June 2024
It does feel like you are rating the wine not for what it is, but rather what it isn’t.
Also, you have been pretty harsh on Keet’s First Verse pre 2020 for being too bold at high 14 to 15% alcohol. I’m curious what you’re thought will be on the new Columella given it’s their lowest alcohol yet at 13.2%.
Udo | 22 June 2024
I hate score inflation, but I also dislike „celebrity bashing“…
Yes, Paul Sauer is a famous wine and the price is high, so one can expect something. But personally, I think that it is not ok to subtract 3-5 points for elegance and being famous…
I fully agree with Greg‘s comment: If the wine was tasted blind, not knowing that it is a „Paul Sauer“, maybe the score would be different…
And I don’t even want to go into the question, if future potential should be included in a score or not. But I am VERY much looking forward to drinking the PS 2021 in 5 or 10 years when it is fully developed…
Greg Sherwood | 21 June 2024
Here’s a challenge for you CE… Taste Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2015, 2017, 2019, 2021 together all blind and then tell me you scored the 2021 a 93/100. On your reasoning, more subtle, elegant, fine boned expressions like those from Margaux appellation would never score well.