Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 1995

Cabernet Sauvignon from Plaisir de Merle’s Simonsberg-Paarl vineyards caused considerable excitement in the 1990s. The property had been established by what was then Stellenbosch Farmers’ Winery, with the late Paul Pontallier of Château Margaux acting as consultant. Pedigree, in other words, to spare. And yet the Wine magazine panel of the time (Michael Fridjhon, the late Dave Hughes, the late Tony Mossop, Dave Swingler and Colin Frith) was underwhelmed by the 1995 vintage, awarding it just two stars in the April 1998 issue (original price: R48). 

Three decades on, a magnum proves rather fine. The nose is complex and int, showing red and black berries, plus the merest hint of violets, herbs, tilled earth and pencil shavings. The palate is medium-bodied and beautifully resolved: fruit remains pure and well defined, acidity is bright, and tannins are velvety and smooth. There is the mellowness that only age can bring, but also a sense of precision that speaks to how carefully this wine was made. Alc: 13%.

CE’s rating: 94/100.

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