Plaisir de Merle Cabernet Sauvignon 2010
By Christian Eedes, 27 March 2014
After rating Alto Cabernet Sauvignon 2010 86/100, a somewhat mediocre score for a bottle of wine costing R149, I wondered if I wasn’t guilty of “Distell bashing” and so resolved to try two other Cabs from SA’s biggest producer-wholesaler.
First, the Neethlingshof 2010 (R76 a bottle), remarkable in that it is has a circa 1990s abv of 12.55% according to the producer-supplied fact sheet. I queried via Twitter whether reverse osmosis or even simple dilution had been used to get this low alcohol but winemaker De Wet Viljoen assured me that it was simply due to careful vineyard management. The bad news is the wine appears pretty retro in other ways: thin and a bit weedy – score: 81/100.
Next the Plaisir de Merle Cab 2010 (R150 a bottle) and a wine which I thought was much more on song. Dark fruit, violets, an attractive herbal note and oak spice. Good concentration, fresh acidity and firm but fine tannins. Significantly more convincing than the Alto.
So what to score it? I referenced my Cabernet Report of last year where the Plaisir de Merle was rated 3½ Stars with me noting that the wine had a “slight raisin quality” (2010 a hot vintage) and seemed “heavily extracted”. Angela Lloyd reviewing it for the current edition of Platter’s also rated it 3½ Stars remarking on “simple, already evolving flavours”.
I think there’s enough to the Plaisir de Merle to give it a score of 86/100 but that would mean the Alto would have to be ratcheted down a point or two. The 100-point system is supposed to provide greater calibration than its 20-point/5 Star counterpart but I suspect I’m still inclined to be nervous of scoring either too high or too low.