Smiley Spesiale 2017

What the artist intended.

If you’re in the vinyl camp when it comes to the vinyl versus digital debate, then there’s every chance that you’ll like the Smiley Spesiale 2017 from Ryan Mostert. It’s a 20-day skin contact Chenin Blanc from 17-year-old Paardeberg vineyards. No yeast, no sulphur added, no fining or filtering, maturation in older French oak lasting 15 months.

Amber in colour, the nose is complex and compelling – top notes of potpourri and fynbos before marmalade and stone fruit, ginger and spice, a hint of honey and perhaps some mint humbug. It’s rich and broad despite a modest alcohol of 12.5% – a slight greasy quality in terms of texture but there’s also nicely tangy acidity and a little phenolic grip to the finish. Super-tasty stuff. Wine Cellar price: R185 a bottle.

Editor’s rating: 94/100.

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