Terracura White 2017

Ryan Mostert of Silwervis and Terracura Wines puts his winemaking philosophy succinctly: “The right grape in the right place and then working as transparently as possible”. Tasting notes and ratings for the new releases as follows:

Silwervis Cinsault 2016
Approximate retail price: R375
From a Paardeberg vineyard planted in 1989 of granite on shale. Wonderfully fragrant nose of rose petal, herbs, cherries and pomegranate. The palate shows pure fruit, an exhilarating line of acidity and powdery tannins, the finish long and salty – a poised and very elegant rendition of the variety. Mostert would probably baulk at having any of his wines described as “precise” but that is very much what this wine is. Alcohol: 12.7%.

Editor’s rating: 95/100.

Smiley Red NV – V 3.0
Approximate retail price: R165
From four different vintages: 40% 2016 Cinsault, 40% 2017 Mourvèdre, 15% 2015 Tinta Barocca and 5% 2018 Syrah. A wild and exotic nose of black fruit, earth, spice, olive and scrub. The palate is extraordinarily dense and flavour packed – sweet and juicy on entry before grippy tannins kick in making for a savoury finish. Alcohol: 13.1%.

Editor’s rating: 92/100.

Terracura Syrah 2016
Wine Cellar price: R400
From five Swartland vineyards – total production 3 900 bottles. Red and black fruit, dried herbs, white pepper and some lily-like fragrance in the background. Extraordinary fruit expression – sweet and dense upfront but resolves really well thanks to lemon-like acidity and a long, cured-meat-like savoury finish. Has a forcefulness that the 2015 didn’t have – perhaps less refined but still very compelling. Alcohol: 13%.

Editor’s rating: 94/100.

Smiley White NV – V 4.0
Approximate retail price: R165
From Chenin Blanc – from four separate vintage, this includes portions fermented under flor, with skin contact as well as maderised. A hint of reduction before peach and citrus plus less primary notes – dried seaweed, yeasty complexity, spice and even a touch of volatile acidity. Rich and broad with tangy acidity, the finish long and gently savoury. Fresher overall and hence less geeky than previous renditions. Alcohol: 12.5%.

Editor’s rating: 92/100.

Silwervis Chenin Blanc 2016
Approximate retail price: R375
Made from a Paardeberg vineyard planted in 1964. Matured in concrete egg for 12 months followed by a further 12 months in tank. Naartjie, orange, stone fruit plus some yeasty complexity. The palate is rich, broad with moderate acidity and a savoury finish. Super-tasty but idiosyncratic as ever. Alcohol: 13.5%.

Editor’s tasting note: 93/100.

Paardeberg to the fore once more.

Terracura White 2017
Not yet released.
New to the range, grapes for this come from two Paardeberg vineyards planted in 1981 and 1983 respectively. Matured for just over 12 months in old oak. A hint of reduction before pear, white peach, apple, hay and talcum powder. Lovely fruit purity and snappy acidity plus some nice tannic grip – has an unusual and very pleasing silkiness about it. Plenty of personality but equally very nicely balanced.

Editor’s rating: 96/100.