Thorne & Daughters new releases
By Christian Eedes, 16 May 2023
The 2022 vintage marks 10 years of wines under the Thorne & Daughters label as founded by Tasha and John Seccombe – they are part of the movement of progressive independent producers that have brought the local industry international acclaim but the fact that they’ve been around for a decade means to term them “new wave” is starting to become a little meaningless. Their white blend called “Rocking Horse”, in particular, has become something of an institution, the latest release again profoundly good. Tasting notes and ratings as follows:
Tin Soldier Semillon 2022
From Swartland Semillon Gris, 50% fermented on the skins for approximately one week. The nose is currently shy with notes of orange, potpourri, dried herbs and a hint of ginger. The palate is rather lean and reined in – fresh acidity with a saline finish. Refined and detailed, some light phenolic grip adding textural interest. Alc: 12.5%
CE’s rating: 94/100.
Paper Kite Old Vine Semillon 2022
From a 1963 Swartland vineyard. Matured for three months in new 500-litre barrels before being transferred to older barrels for nine months. Citrus and stone fruit as well as hay, olive brine and a hint of bee’s wax. The palate is poised and direct with good fruit expression and bright acidity. A wine of subtly in terms of both flavour and texture. Alc: 13%.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
Cat’s Cradle Old Vine Chenin Blanc 2022
Grapes from 1971 and 1979 Swartland vineyards. Citrus, apple, fynbos, hints of clove an cinnamon plus an ever-so-slight waxiness. The palate has a dense core of fruit offset by fresh acidity, the finish intensely savoury. Surprising weight and texture given a moderate alcohol of 13%. A striking wine of real luminosity.
CE’s rating: 95/100.
Rocking Horse Cape White Blend 2022
35% Semillon, 28% Roussanne, 14% Chenin Blanc, 13% Chardonnay and 10% Clairette Blanc sourced from across the Cape. Expressive aromatics including citrus, apple, peach, straw and fynbos, the merest hint of reduction and some nutty, earthy base notes. Excellent fruit expression and crisp acidity before a finish that is long and dry. Super-detailed as always. Alc: 13%.
CE’s rating: 96/100.
Snakes & Ladders 2022
Grapes from Citrusdal Mountain aka Surfberg. Fermented in old oak. Peach, nectarine, blackcurrant, dried herbs and some smoky reduction on the nose while the palate is massively concentrated with driving, almost puckering acidity and an intensely savoury finish. No doubt this makes a big impression but nuance and restraint don’t really apply… Alc: 14%.
CE’s rating: 92/100.
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