Editorial: Has wine reputation become more about brand than quality?

Wine reputations are a complicated interaction between perception and reality, where the weight of a brand name, a storied maison, or a prestigious appellation often holds more sway than the liquid in the glass. While quality should, in theory, dictate the value and desirability of a wine, the influence of branding, legacy, and marketing often eclipses marginal differences in intrinsic characteristics.

Consumers, both seasoned connoisseurs and casual drinkers, lean on established brands as a proxy for quality. The names of Bordeaux first growths, the grand marques of Champagne, or revered Burgundian domaines are etched into the wine world’s consciousness. These producers have, over decades or even centuries, cultivated an aura of excellence that persists irrespective of vintage variation or stylistic changes.

Local analogies are easy to draw. When it comes to Bordeaux-style red blends, there’s an aura of both prestige and reliability to Kanonkop and Meerlust that’s not easily lost; Graham Beck is not going to be knocked off its pedestal for making top Cap Classique any time soon; and the wards of Hemel-en-Aarde have now pretty much taken a stranglehold on Pinot Noir

For many buyers, purchasing a bottle from an iconic producer guarantees a certain level of quality, even if a blind tasting might reveal similar or even superior quality from lesser-known properties. This trust in branding reduces the cognitive effort required to assess every bottle individually. Instead, consumers rely on the safety of reputation, making established brands more resilient in the marketplace than wines judged purely on their organoleptic merits.

Additionally, well-established wine brands often eschew the scrutiny that comes with blind tastings, where their wines could be evaluated purely on merit rather than legacy, further reinforcing their dominance in the market. Mullineux, Sadie, Savage and the rest of the A-list are only ever going to show their wines sighted, under the most carefully controlled circumstances, and nobody should be surprised that this is the case…

The idea that great wine is inherently superior to merely good wine is complicated by the subjectivity of tasting. While professional critics and sommeliers are trained to parse out the minutiae of aroma, flavor, structure, and balance, the differences between wines of similar quality levels can be incredibly subtle. Moreover, a deep level of engagement with the subject is required to care at all. Watch this hilarious but also mildly painful Instagram reel to discover how many people really feel about wine:

 

 

 

 

 

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Consider, if you will, two examples of Chenin Blanc from adjacent parcels in the Swartland, produced with similar techniques, which might exhibit only marginal variations in fruit concentration, freshness or any other important measure. Yet, one from a high-profile producer with a established reputation will command a significantly higher price than a virtually identical wine from a less famous neighbour. The perceived difference in quality is often exaggerated by psychological bias and the halo effect of branding.

It’s not like wine criticism and scores don’t play a role in reinforcing the dominance of established brands. A 100-point wine from an iconic estate cements its desirability, even if the difference between a 97-point competitor is negligible to most palates. The fear of missing out (FOMO) and the desire for social validation further skew the wine market in favor of brands with historical clout.

Additionally, the role of wine auctions (yes, Strauss & Co, we’re looking at you) and secondary markets amplifies the phenomenon. Collectors seeking blue-chip wines from revered estates drive up demand and prices, further widening the gap between brand reputation and intrinsic wine quality.

While wine quality remains a crucial factor, its impact on consumer perception is often overshadowed by brand prestige, marketing, and social influence. Marginal differences in organoleptic qualities are frequently lost amidst the weight of reputation and perceived status. This phenomenon underscores the reality that in the world of fine wine, the story behind the bottle increasingly matters as much – if not more – than what is inside.