Silwervis 2014

By , 23 July 2015

Comment

15

Smashable.

Smashable.

Charging R275 a bottle might not be a lot in an international context but it’s still ambitious by local standards, especially if it’s for a single-variety Cinsaut but that’s precisely what Ryan Mostert has done with his Silwervis 2014.

Is it worth the money? The aromatics are very floral with notes of red geranium and rose but there’s also a touch of reduction. The palate meanwhile is medium-bodied with lovely fruit expression, bright acidity and relatively soft tannins. More red fruit than black and a little white pepper before a finish which is saline in the most pleasant way. Hugely appealing but there’s no getting away from the fact that it’s Cinsaut and how exciting can this grape be on its own?

Score: 90/100.

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Comments

15 comment(s)

  • Jonathan Snashall23 July 2015

    I guess with so few wines like this (elegance, balance, restrained yet intense), there is an arguement for the price, but there should be more wines like this out there, which will no doubt happen as the backlash against big wines continues but until then you can probably get away with this sort of pricing me thinks.

  • Johnson23 July 2015

    Daft question sir (“how exciting can this grape be on its own”)!
    A bit biased there are we not? Any reason why you cannot judge the wine as it is? Perhaps you do not understand lighter style and floral flavoured wines. It is quite okay to admit it. But do not shame it. How do you yourself go about judging Gamay for instance (Cru Beaujalais that is) for instance? (I forgot, we do not see most of those in SA. I guess what I’m saying is stop measuring single Cinsaults by stock standard Saffer yardsticks and let your palate do the walking to some strange shores for a change). Do you want to blend it with something, what.? Will it soften Cab or give fruit to Pinot? What, what? I agree on the price, but then if Cab or such blends can go for R900 plus, then Bob’s your uncle isn’t it?

  • Gareth O’Brien23 July 2015

    I had the pleasure of drinking this wine recently, it’s incredibly intreguiging, being a non South African resident, I can agree that it’s price point ” might not be alot in an international context” but would you sooner I spend 275 Zar on a mediocre blend?, as I certainly have done. It’s horses for courses, Cinsault has a lot to offer for South Africa, especially from an international perspective, wines like this should be encouraged,

  • Smirrie24 July 2015

    Christian was playing devils advocate !

  • Elias24 July 2015

    Speaking as a consumer I think a wines quality should justify the price. May it be a cincaut or cabernet. R275 for a 90 point wine not out of proportion in my honest opinion but maybe if I try it my opinion will change.

  • RyanTheWineGeek24 July 2015

    Hi Christian,

    Thanks for tasting the wine and thanks to everyone who has commented so far.
    I find Cinsault to be a hugely exciting grape.
    It has a way of expressing site almost effortlessly and with a sense of transparency and purity. It can make very clear wines and clarity in wine is something we value.
    Like Poulsard in the Jura the wines from Cinsault are charming in youth but have an uncanny ability to age and pick up complexity as they do so.
    A bottle of 1972 Chateau Libertas tasted recently was singing. Still intact structurally and providing so many layers of intrigue that drinking it was a hugely heady experience, think still primary cherry fruit but coupled with earth, dried leaves, dried fruit and even a a light brush of tannin. Properly complex. Some of the most fun I’ve had with mature South African wine.
    Last year a 2009 Pofadder while still undoubtedly charming on the surface had a sense tightly wound power that at that stage showed no sign of even starting to unwind, a wine that you can drink now and for the next 15 years would be my humble guess.
    Like Chenin it seems to has a very close connection with our land and produces wines with an inherent balance.
    Silwervis is about celebrating paradox, about celebrating grapes that were once regarded as workhorses in “bulk wine” areas showing their ability to make wines of character
    Cinsault plantings are in decline and I think we need to protect and celebrate them and that starts with us valuing the grape.

  • Jamie Goode24 July 2015

    Christian you have a great palate and I respect you greatly, but on this you are wrong. This wine is worth the money and Cinsault is one of the world’s great warm climate varieties. If I had the money or the backing I would be looking to lease or buy as many old cinsault vineyards as I could get my hands on.

  • John Hartley24 July 2015

    Until we as South African’s start paying good money for good wine, we will see more and more vineyards pulled out to plant other fruit that can bring in greater yields at greater prices. If we want to keep them in the ground, we have to pay for what is in the bottle. I think you are right Elias, 90 points should justify the price be it Cab or Cinsaut.

  • Christian24 July 2015

    Some further thoughts about Silwervis 2014 and Cinsaut in general:

    1. I rated the Silwervis 2014 90/100 – the equivalent of excellent, which is to say better than good but not outstanding. It was a complete blast to drink but any extra points and I’d be guilty of “score inflation”.

    2. Regarding price, I have no real beef. I’m quite sure the market will absorb the total production of 900 bottles at R275 and if it keeps a special vineyard in the ground, so much the better.

    2. It’s early days when it comes to new-wave Cinsaut. Let’s not expect, too much, too soon. Here our experience with Chenin Blanc comes to mind: there are now plenty of top-end examples which are unquestionably world class (worthy of scores of 93 and above) but it’s taken some 20 years to get to this point.

    3. We need to guard against the myth that the reds of the 1960s and 1970s which are showing so well now were some kind of wonder-blend of Cab and Cinsaut and nothing else. Other varieties also featured and I suspect winemaking technique was as much a factor as anything.

    4. Cinsaut is in decline but it is still our 11th most planted variety with 1 902ha in the ground at the end of 2014.

    5. My guess is that where Cinsaut will really shine is as a blending component rather than as a single variety wine.

  • Udo24 July 2015

    From an agent/importer perspective. I would never ever buy in a Cinsaut wine at this price. It would become more or less € 30,- in Europe. There is not a lot of 100% cinsaut around, but you can buy a Chilean cinsaut from 50 year old vines for € 15,95 in a wineshop in Holland: De Martino / Viejas Tinajas Cinsault 2013.
    So pricing reflects the small production but nothing else.

    I do think cinsaut has a future in SA, blended or not.

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