A.A. Badenhorst Family Wines White 2007

By , 27 October 2011

A "sex is on fire" kind of wine.

With the second annual Swartland Revolution set to take place on 11.11.11 plus the following day, expect saturation social media coverage of the wines from Adi Badenhorst, Andrea and Chris Mullineux and Eben Sadie as well as host of other indie winemakers during that period. It is, for instance, remarkable that Grape.co.za editor Tim James and the Sunday Times’s online wine writer Neil Pendock seem to concur that the Swartland is where it’s at while typically agreeing about precious little else. London based wine writer and founder of Wine Anorak.com Jamie Goode will also be in attendance this year, so the Swartland Revolution is going global.

This daddyo will also be attending, and while the rest of Cape Town was at the Kings of Leon concert last night, I broached a bottle of A.A. Badenhorst Family Wine White 2007 to prepare my tastebuds. A blend of 70% Rousanne, 11% Grenache Blanc, 9% Viognier, 5% Chenin Blanc and 5% Sauvignon Blanc, it underwent spontaneous fermentation (obviously) and was matured for 13 months in used, large-format barrels.

A Möbius strip of a wine, at once fresh and oxidative, primary and secondary. On the nose, peach and a pleasant waxiness. The palate was medium- to full-bodied with an impressively broad range of flavour: lime through stone fruit, herbs, spice, honey and some oxidative nuttiness which was a point of interest rather than an over-riding impression. Moderate but not insufficient acidity. Score: 17/20 (its failure to get a perfect 18/20 only because there is a sense that it has yet to reach its peak).  Over and above the hype, the Swartland Revolution should be a blast.


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