Kanonkop Paul Sauer 2022

To mark the release of the 2022 vintage of the Cape Bordeaux Red Blend that is Paul Sauer (price: R1,050 a bottle) from Stellenbosch property, a vertical back to 2018. A revealing exercise, the impact of vintage significant.

2018 – Has the slightly dour, brooding quality that the drought inflicted on many wines from this vintage (original rating: 92/100)

2019 – Considered a tricky vintage on account of fluctuating weather conditions. Paul Sauer from this vintage, however, turned out to be extremely elegant (original rating: 96/100)

2020 – This vintage will be remembered for the Covid-19 lockdown, weather conditions generally unremarkable. This release of Paul Sauer looks increasingly rustic (original rating: 93/100 but I’d be inclined to drop a point now)

2021 – Harvest was cooler and later than usual and Stellenbosch reds are generally well regarded. Paul Sauer from this vintage is looking upright and statuesque (original rating: 93/100 but it may deserve an extra point now)

As for the 2022, it was another cool season with moderate conditions. While not as hyped as 2021, Paul Sauer from this vintage is stellar. (I also thought the 2022 De Compostella from Mvemve Raats outperformed the 2021 when tasting them recently.) According to viticulturist Michael Malherbe, budbreak in the Paul Sauer vineyard was a full two weeks later in 2022 than in 2021, ripening also more even.

Tasting note: A blend of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Cabernet Franc, and 18% Merlot. Matured for 24 months in 100% new oak. The nose shows red and black berries, floral perfume, herbs, and oak spice. Slightly broader than the 2021, despite the unusually high proportion of Cabernet Franc. Great structure and balance – pure fruit, less aggressive acidity than in some vintages, and tightly packed, fine-grained tannins. Substantial without being weighty. Alc: 13.5%.

CE’s rating: 95/100.

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