Lomond Pincushion Sauvignon Blanc 2007

By , 28 October 2011



A lot of stemware.

Billed as “A Night of a Thousand Glasses”, it was more like “The Infinitely Prolonged Evening of Nine Hundred and Ninety Nine and a Half Glasses”. We were at the fourth annual black-tie dinner hosted by Cape Legends, a division of producer-wholesaler Distell responsible for the marketing of Allesverloren, Alto, Le Bonheur, Neethlingshof, Uitkyk, Stellenzicht, Plaisir de Merle and Lomond. Ten wines paired with ten courses sounds good on paper but execution was somewhat hit and miss.

Chef for the evening was Vanie Padayachee and her food was both exciting in concept and generally well executed, banquet catering often capable of making the great look ordinary but not in this case. Curious, though, was the refusal to accommodate vegetarians and the guest sitting immediately to my right discreetly excused herself after the fourth course of Alaskan crab and before the fifth course of lamb, the sixth of warthog, the seventh of beef and the eighth of duck…

Perhaps the highlight to the whole meal was the very first course of trio of salmon rolled in rice paper with ponzu dressing served with the outstanding Lomond Pincushion Sauvignon Blanc 2007. The mustard seed in the dish worked gangbusters with the pyrazine bite of the wine. Pity though that there wasn’t much of the wine to go around, the guest to the left of me getting only the last drops of the last bottle…

Uitkyk Sauvingon Blanc 2010 with quail with a passion fruit vinaigrette was a dud. Nice wine, nice dish, but no synergy. Cab-Merlot blend Le Bonheur Prima 1999 worked well enough with cured and slow braised guinea fowl with leeks tossed in truffle and wild mushroom ragout but I was disconcerted when the drip-stop unfurled from the bottle sending wine splashing over my place setting. As the guest across the table from me remarked,” Not ideal. You could have been somebody important…”

Later, a 2006 Gewürztraminer from Neethlingshof was served and I was somewhat nonplussed by the wine on its own in the sense that it was not immediately obvious how development enhanced this aromatic white but I had to admit that pairing it with dried fruit smoked lamb chop with curried gnocchi and Cape Malay spice reduction was absolutely inspired.

Plaisir de Merle Malbec 2008, meanwhile, is the best version of a local wine from this variety around at the moment, not at all overdone as so many of its counterparts are. In fact, rather refined and I thought a bit overwhelmed by the warthog and chorizo hot pot in a creamy butter curry sauce and silver glitter. As I say, a hit and miss affair…


1 comment(s)

  • John Horrocks28 October 2011

    Christian, you have a job that most men would give ……..for!
    I agree with your comments re the Lomond SB; I tasted it 2 years ago at the OM Trophy Wine Show, and it was quite superb expression of the varietal. ‘ve never tasted the Plasier du Merle Malbec, but can vouch for the Bellevue Malbec has always been my favourite expression of the varietal.in SA. Try it if you can. John

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